Wal. Where roughly on the vehicle did this hose rub through?
Disco 2 Lads,
After replacing the 4 fuel lines on the fuel pump of my TD5 (after one wore through due to a weld dag on the cross-member), I couldn't for the life of me get the pump back into the tank due to resistance of the seals. The manual didn't help so I searched the net (as you do) and found a YouTube video an American fellow made showing how he did it. By removing the pump seal and installing that into the tank first, the pump went in easy.
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qW-wDtmtwok"]Land Rover Discovery 2 Fuel Pump Install - YouTube[/ame]
Apparently the leak I had is common (I hate hearing that!) due to weld dags on the cross-members. Worth having quick look on yours if you could be bothered. This happened during the last 10k's of a 5,500km trip. Non OEM lines cost me $185.00 via Rimmer Bros.
Cheers,
Wal
Wal. Where roughly on the vehicle did this hose rub through?
Dave.
I was asked " Is it ignorance or apathy?" I replied "I don't know and I don't care."
1983 RR gone (wish I kept it)
1996 TDI ES.
2003 TD5 HSE
1987 Isuzu County
Thanks for posting that link Wal.
I too have recently had the green-banded line wear through. I was on my way home from work and noticed the puddle and drips under the rear end once I got out.
And, very unfortunately for any fellow motorcyclists, I left a trail of diesel on the roads for the next 250km til I got home. I reckon the vehicle lost approximately 10-15 litres over that distance. It was a shame to see all my carefully applied rust prevention underbody 'stuff' dripping off and being deposited up the bumper and rear window. (I never knew the VIN was stamped onto the chassis rail back there on the driver side...) 78 degree diesel is mighty effective as a cleaning agent. But not good as a lubricant for the rear wiper blade.
I've not got the ruptured line at hand in order to post a photo but I'll do so later in the week when I'm home.
There were multiple rub points from both the pump loom rubbing and also where the line had dropped down onto the chassis cross member as a result of the little 4-way spacer clips breaking off and letting it drop down.
I spent, actually strike that, wasted quite some time attempting to fit the new lines without dropping the tank, until I gave up and dropped the tank. That's my biggest tip for the task - drop the tank. It's only 6 or so bolts and you have the pleasure of removing all the dust and crud that the vehicle has collected throughout its travels up to that point.
And don't bother removing all the trim in the rear to pull up the carpet to access the pump/lines. The carpet is actually cut approx 40 or 50mm inside the line where it meets the trim. I found that I was able to remove and refit the carpet without too much hassle without loosening any trim fasteners. YMMV.
If I had had the materials at hand I would have laid a layer or two of rubber such as a tyre tube or similar on top of that cross member before putting the fuel lines into their clips - purely to try and prevent the rubbing if they dropped down again. Some sort of glue might keep the rubber in place? Dunno.
I don't want to have to do the job again in a hurry that's for sure. I've still got a crick in my neck and shoulder from the yoga postures that I managed in order to finish this job.
Oh what I'd give to have a hoist...
Dave, Apologies for late reply to your question: The line rubbed through on top of the chassis cross-member, right hand side just in front of the fuel tank. The cross-member is a triangular member, flat on the top. Where it is welded to the right hand fore/aft chassis member, tiny weld dags are evident. One of these caused the problem. I filed off the dags and covered the area with a piece of lino which I zip tied to the cross-member. (sorry no photos as the file size is always too big and I'm not smart enough to work out how to make them smaller!)
I agree with Bell1975 in that removing the fuel tank is the best way to replace the lines. Also, remember to remove any tow-bar support members first. The book won't tell you that.
Another thing I did, was to cut a circular hole in the carpet above the pump in case I need to go back there in the future. My rear deck protector covers it up nicely.
Dave.
I was asked " Is it ignorance or apathy?" I replied "I don't know and I don't care."
1983 RR gone (wish I kept it)
1996 TDI ES.
2003 TD5 HSE
1987 Isuzu County
The young mechanic who did mine in Kununurra 2 weeks ago wrapped the line in foam tape, which I thought was a good idea.
Regards Philip A
I seem to remembering reading some where, possibly on here, that this issue was the subject of a LR recall around when the D2a came out. Anyone know if that's correct.
That has been stated in this forum, and I have no reason to disbelieve it.
I seem to remembering reading some where, possibly on here, that this issue
was the subject of a LR recall around when the D2a came out. Anyone know if
that's correct.
My understanding was that the issue was wearing through at the first bend out of the pump on top of the crossmember, and I downloaded a photo from somewhere with the suspect area circled.
Mine wore through at the other end , caused by a wiring loom rubbing on it, which I now think is the air suspension loom, unused on my car.LOL.
I note the mechanic has zip tied the loom to the foam tape around the pipe now. My car showed no outstanding programs so the dealer mechanic probably located the loom incorrectly when they did the program. Geeesh.
Regards Philip A
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