Swaggie
SubscriberI have just about completed fully servicing my 2002 D2 TD5 auto after 17KK lap including the GRR.
I changed the oil in Perth after about 7KK with Nulon full synthetic 5W30 but did not change either filter as I was working on the footpath of my friend who lives in Dalkeithm and I felt that I could only do so much without upsetting the very upmarket locals. I changed it then as I didn't think I would be able to get the oil anywhere North, and in fact the Supercheap that I went to in Perth did not have it but Repco did.
So I changed engine oil after another 10KK along with both filters. The spin on filter appeared to me to be full of contaminants as it did not drain back through the media on being inverted for quite a while. When I placed it in a plastic bag it weighed a lot more than a new filter.
Having said that the engine oil still looked clean , had used very little , and better still had made none.
I don't see how you could leave the spin on filter unchanged for an extended period.
I cleaned the MAP sensor and found no carbon on it just a bit of liquid oil, so I think the full syntheric helps with this as when I bought the car, the MAP was completely stuffed with carbon as well as the EGR valve.
I was surprised by the poor condition of the front diff oil and the transfer case oil. Both plugs had a considerable build up of metal paste and the oils were severely discoloured. Both were/are 80-90 GL5 . I am pretty sure the oil in both has gone "off grade" as the front diff leaked from somewhere , but I don't know where as it doesn't leak now! I think/hope the drain plug which I have sealed with thread sealant. The pinion seal is dry. There is an indenting at the front bottom of the diff/ axle which could be a crack but I looked after cleaning and there is no oil there now.
HOWEVER the rear diff I filled with 85-140 looks just great , although I just had a look and didn't pull the drain plug. But it is golden brown.
So I may try 85-140 in the transfer and front diff when I next go on a long hot trip.
I had no dusting of the MAF, which I cleaned anyway. I placed a bead of zinc oxide grease around the air filter lid where the filter rubber gasket sits , and this was still pretty clean. The air filter was changed in Middleton SA and the replacement filter was still clean after the GRR. I used a Unifilter sock in the snorkle top along the GRR, but I only fitted it at Mornington so I thought I would have a lot more dust. The Unifilter was dirty however when I cleaned it at Kununurra.
So this is very different to non snorkle D2s. I remember meeting a bloke at Mount Elizabeth 5 years ago wanting to know where he could buy a new filter , and showing me the most blocked filter I had ever seen. I said "Perth".
The most contamination was bees. There were dozens in the filter housing.
So the old girl is going well now except for the "rust treatment " underneath from the leak from the input seal of the transfer, a smaller leak at the back of the sump, and of course the massive diesel spill when my high pressure hose wore through.
The young mechanic who replaced the fuel lines snapped the bolts that are welded to a bar at the front of the tank and only put 6MM 8.8 bolts in. So I cold chiseled the broken welded bolts off the bar , and fitted the bar back with 10MM 8.8 bolts. Tank shouldn't fall out now.
Regards Philip A
YarnMaster
SupporterNot sure, but you might find that it has an anti-drain back valve. I know some of the spin on filters have them.Originally Posted by PhilipA
As for being heavier, I would expect it to be as it's full of oil unlike the new unit (especially since as you've pointed above the oil didn't drain back out...).
Isn't the recommended weight 75W-90 for all three diffs? 85W-140 is a big increase!
Swaggie
Phillip, the attached image shows soot content of oil. TD5s are group III. (It is measured from oil in a Provent, but you can consider it indicative of engine oil soot trends as well).
You can see that even at 20k km you are only getting up to Tdi/4BD1 levels at 5k km (the other data points).
I know JC likes to change oil centrifuges regularl, but when I mentioned that to the manufacturer they considered that a waste of money.
Swaggie
I cut one open from my D2 after 15K to find only a very thin residue layer so subsequently changed them at 20K, which was probably still much sooner than necessary.
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Swaggie
SubscriberWhen you remove a spin on filter and turn the filter over, you uncover both the inlet with the anti drain back valve and the outlets which has no valve.
Not sure, but you might find that it has an anti-drain back valve. I know
some of the spin on filters have them
It is usual in my experience, particularly with 5 weight oil , for the contents of the filter to drain through the media, and out the outlets( the holes around the circumference).
In this case the oil stayed largely in the filter when I upturned it to drain on the spike on my oil tray for maybe 15 minutes.
Now maybe the TD5 filter has an extremely fine filter medium , but even so I would expect most of the oil to drain out. It didn't which suggests to me that the filter media was partly or fully blocked.
I agree with the centrifugal filter, however it is easy to change and the car had done 17KK on it anyway.
Well probably not as big as it appears as the oil weights for transmission oils are different to engine oils.Isn't the recommended weight 75W-90 for all three diffs? 85W-140 is a big
increase!
The 85W vs 75 is inconsequential except for drag when cold, and if teh diff runs cooler without the friction evident with the 90 hot rating it may not be much heavier.
I just looked up the VIs for engine oil vs transmission oils.
transmission oil 85W-140 has cold Vi of 11 to VI of 24<32 at 100C.
75W-90 has a cold vi ( at -40C ) of 4.1 while 90 at 100c has 13.5 at 100c.
To compare engine oils
20W -50 has a cold Vi of 5.6 at -12C to 16.3<21.9 at 100C
20W 60 has a cold Vi of 5.6 to a 100C Vi of 21.9<26.1
So transmission 90-140 is about the same hot Viscosity as 20W-60 motor oil and not much more than 20W-50 motor oil.Seeing we NEVER get down to -40C in OZ it seems 75W is never needed, and even 80 is a luxury at -12 C. So I see nothing wrong with using 85-140 other than it may drop everyday fuel economy. Lots of members use 60 weight oil in their engines!
I wonder now whether the LT230 and front diff run at well over 100C on a 35degree day at 100KMh towing 700Kgs or more. Maybe that is the reason for the extended sump kits for them.
Regards Philip A
Regards Philip A
TopicToaster
I've been running 85-140 LSD oil since fitting the ATB's at the recommendation of the diff guy. He uses it in everything, partially for the above reasons, but mostly because with only one oil no one can stuff it up. Been fine, and as found, seems to stay cleaner.
Moderator
An xW-140 won't hurt in a Rover diff but it's probably overkill as they don't get that hot being a spiral bevel diff.
The Sals on the other hand....
The LT230;
A lot of us have run either a blend of xW-140 and 75W-90 or straight 80W-140 for years as it does run hot.
The only downsides are increased drag and on colds mornings the lube can take a bit longer to fully lubricate all areas as 85W- fluids can be like treacle at 0°C.
Just take it a little easier for the first couple of km just to ensure oil is everywhere it should be on a cold start.
This goes for the diffs, too.
75W-110 is an excellent viscosity grade but we see very few fluids meeting this spec in Australia, mores the pity.
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