Change over motor for the TD5 99

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Originally Posted by twr7cx

Would EU3 perhaps relate at all to the facelift models change over?

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They started fitting EU3 motors sometime around mid 2001 build dates, before the facelift.

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Originally Posted by DiscoDB

They started fitting EU3 motors sometime around mid 2001 build dates, before the facelift.

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Correct - you will find any 2002 model (VIN----2Axxxxxx) onwards will have the EU3 engine - easiest way to tell (apart from the engine number prefix 16P) is to check for a EGR cooler on the front of the cylinder head (if it hasn't been removed) and check if it has a hose running from the FPR towards the front of the cylinder head.

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Originally Posted by strangy

I'd stick with another earlier 10p prefix (EU2) motor for a replacement unless you have a good grasp of the electrics/schematics and are handy with a soldering iron etc.
Changing the 10P(EU2) to 16P(EU3) motor requires some different plumbing for the EGR cooler if fitted otherwise its a direct bolt up motor.
The EU3 motor will run on the earlier ECU etc, but you would want to change to an EU3 map and AAP sensor type to get the best out of it.
This requires a little more than an average understanding of electrics.
though would be worthwhile if you have this.
If you have the RAVE CD and schematics to peruse you will know pretty quick if its within your scope.


FYI compression tests need to have the head fitted up with a good gasket to be conducted, so unfortunately there is no way of knowing what the result of changing the crook gasket would be until the new one was fitted and the head torqued down. (unless there were physical signs of wear/damage to the piston and bore in situ)

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Hi strangy,

Yes the cylinders are lipped and would look like a rebuild would be required. As I said it was comp tested before head removal and after the head was put back on , but results have not changed. :/)
The motor I've found has done aparently 50000ks and sat on a pallet for the last 6 yrs. I'm really just tossing up weather I should buy the 15p eu3, replace the ecu and drop it in, or bite the bullet and just work with my 10p engine that has a chipped ECU.

Decisions decisions.

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Originally Posted by bronson

The motor I've found has done aparently 50000ks and sat on a pallet for the last 6 yrs.

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Motors that have been sitting around for year unused are not always in great condition - even if they were low kms before removal.

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Originally Posted by bronson

Hi strangy, Yes the cylinders are lipped and would look like a rebuild would be required. As I said it was comp tested before head removal and after the head was put back on , but results have not changed. :/) The motor I've found has done aparently 50000ks and sat on a pallet for the last 6 yrs. I'm really just tossing up weather I should buy the 15p eu3, replace the ecu and drop it in, or bite the bullet and just work with my 10p engine that has a chipped ECU. Decisions decisions.

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6 years on a pallet is a long time in storage for an unprepared motor, but nothing if the motor was inhibited, bunged and sealed.
I'd be wanting to put a boroscope down the glow plug holes for a look before committing.
Are you fitting it yourself?
If it helps, I recently fitted an almost identical km EU3 motor to my Defender.
Plan/budget for water pump, front & rear crankshaft seals,sump gasket, rocker cover gasket, FPR, injector o rings and copper washers.
Time takes it toll on these things especially items that have seen some service.
With those things done on a motor that age, it's fit and forget for the life of the car.
Check that oil pump bolt while your at it:)
Make sure you get the 4 wire AAP sensor with the motor( if it is still there) and ECU. Better yet would be to get the engine loom with the 4 wire AAP, then no soldering/splicing or ECU plug pins are required.
That will make swap nice and easy.

Thanks for that , I can't look at this motor because it's in Perth, I'd be taking a chance in terms of condition etc. I have got some pics sent to me although that don't tell you anything.
I'm just really starting to think now that a rebuild is going to be the best option, whether I get my mech to do the lot of get a short motor from Turners Engineerring is another question???
Just would like to know how they run after a reco really as well, it's a big thing when yr parting with yr hard earned!

Cheers

Bronson

I've been doing some research into high KM Td5 Oversize rebuilds, as it seems to stick in my head that I've read people claiming they're 'not quite right' but I can't ACTUALLY find anything that says that, then again I've only just started looking into it.
However from what I read they should be just fine, as you're not quite in the 600k kms range yet AFAIK :D

^ x 2

Hi Bronson,

If it was my car I'd be either obtaining a recently wrecked Td5 motor from a very reputable supplier like TRS in Adelaide ( who will give you a guarantee) or cut your losses and buy a good used late model whole car.

With the price of used discos dropping rapidly, the cost of a full rebuild doesn't make economic sense.

Cheers
Simon

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Originally Posted by simonmelb

Hi Bronson,

If it was my car I'd be either obtaining a recently wrecked Td5 motor from a very reputable supplier like TRS in Adelaide ( who will give you a guarantee) or cut your losses and buy a good used late model whole car.

With the price of used discos dropping rapidly, the cost of a full rebuild doesn't make economic sense.

Cheers
Simon

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I have just done this with my Td5 from TRS. So far so good. the motor was impeccably clean. They do all the bits required to make the engine reliable like changing head gasket, dowels to metal ones, oil pump bolt etc.

My replacement motor was a reasonably low kilometre motor (120000) and cost 4200 which included transport from Adelaide to Darwin and return of my old motor.

My motor had a cracked piston and signs of the motor been dusted at some point of its life. To rebuild properly I would have been looking at a lot more than 5k.
Hope that helps with your decision.

Cheers, Chris