Thread: TD5 engine missing and no power

Well after it stopped running all together and not starting had to get it flat bedded to the repair shop turns out it was the fuel pump that had **** it's self got replaced and now runs fine so did not get the full harness done, I have another fault though it seems the transmission temp warning light flickers on and of when it's cold not sure what this is will have to look further I did change the transmission filter just before it **** itself!!! Anybody have any thoughts on this?

The transmission temp switch on the D2 auto is a common fail
easy to swap out google it there are a few how to's

Original diagnoses of wiring should be an warning bet they would
have added a pump to the bill if they could have found the fault
with the money you saved get a tester nanocom or similar
it will pay off.
Tester and good diagnostic check as pretty much the best way
forward.
Loads of tester owners on here willing to help out.

Hi Guys

Everyone is on the right track, but I fix mine every couple of years without buying anything. All the dealers want to sell you parts and time, and they tell you oil has got into the harnesses and the ECU - well that's BS - here is my fix.

There are two parts to this. The first part is the "get you home" part. Very simple. Just pull off the road, put it in neutral, or park if it is auto. Rev the engine to 3000 rpm, and hold the throttle there while you turn off the ignition key, right round to steering lock. When the engine has stopped completely, restart it, and with any luck it will be running smoothly and will get you home. If this does not work, try once more, and if that does not work you need to get the car home somehow so you can fix it. How does this work I hear you ask. Well, it is caused by a bad connection at the injector plug. When you rev the engine and turn it off, for a moment the alternator is unregulated, and is producing about 18 volts. This is just enough to burn through the oily deposits on the plug pins and give a good but temporary contact.

Part two - the long term fix. Very simple. Remove the rocker cover, and each in turn, take off the injector plugs by depressing the stainless steel release catch. Some will almost fall off, others may be firmer. The loose ones are the ones which are giving you the bad connection. Look into the injector. You will see two brass prongs sticking up. These are the prongs which make the electrical connection in the plug you have just removed. VERY CAREFULLY using long nose pliers, twist each prong about 25 degrees, and put the plugs back on. They should feel tight to slide on. If not twist to 30 degrees.

After that my car is usually good for about 2 to 3 years, and it cost me nothing.

Hope this helps