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Thread: EGT normal readings

  1. #1
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    EGT normal readings

    Hi all, so, based on the debate about the MAF i've just oredered a EGT gauge from ebay: Universal New 2"/52mm EGT Exhaust Gas Temperature Temp Gauge With Sensor Car 12V | eBay i hope it's good enough, as i didnt make much research about it and it's not very used in Europe i'm asking here what should i expect to get from it to be on the safe side, or to put it other way, at what reading should i get worried please?

    i want to use it with MAF plugged and bypassed to and if there will be a difference i'll report back off course

  2. #2
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    Can't comment on the EGT gauge you have bought. Providing you fit the probe before the turbo you will be able to compare results.

    The turbo is meant to be good for 750degC but some people with remaps talk of seeing 900+ degC under full load which is too high. I alarm mine at 650 degC but can see 700 under hard acceleration and will back off if it alarms. At constant 110kph on flat road mine runs at 350-380 degC. At idle should drop below 200.

    The real test would be when towing a trailer uphill and making use of the full power. You want to be able keep below 600 - the lower the better.

    When you compare, if you are seeing higher temps under the same conditions then this would indicate over fuelling. If you are just seeing higher peaks under acceleration then this just confirms that your MAF bypass mod is resulting in more fuel being injected and with it you get better performance.

    I would also do some timed runs, like holding 4th gear and accelerating under full throttle from 50kph to 110kph and comparing the differences. This covers the full torque range from just off full boost. Torque/power differences are quite noticeable over this test.

    Happy experimenting.

  3. #3
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    Cheers m8

  4. #4
    Tombie Guest
    To give you some idea:
    Alloy piston, alloy head and 660°c is the melting point for Aluminium

  5. #5
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    ok, got it, thanks

  6. #6
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    750C is the danger point. Put your own safety factor on that.

    For accurate readings the probe must extend to the centre of the main flow. It must also use only K type thermocouple connectors to join it. Any other joint will create cold junctions which throw off the reading.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tombie View Post
    To give you some idea:
    Alloy piston, alloy head and 660°c is the melting point for Aluminium
    Which is probably why if I was to recommend the single most important performance mod which can also improve engine and turbo life it would have to be a larger intercooler. The engine performs better, the EGT's come down, and you haven't even started to play with remaps or any of the electronic-trickery boxes which are all aimed at injecting more fuel.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by DiscoDB View Post
    Which is probably why if I was to recommend the single most important performance mod which can also improve engine and turbo life it would have to be a larger intercooler. The engine performs better, the EGT's come down, and you haven't even started to play with remaps or any of the electronic-trickery boxes which are all aimed at injecting more fuel.
    That said though, any diesel engine configuration can be tuned to run as hot or cool as required.
    An intercooled system (or larger modified intercooler) only runs cooler EGT until the fuel is turned up to compensate.

    There is a downside to intercoolers in cold climates. They can add a long time to engine warmup. I haven't fitted an intercooler to my tdi work car for this reason and I run a square of carpet as an intercooler block on my other tdi car in winter to raise intake temperatures.

    When I eventually get around to fitting an intercooler to my Isuzu I'm considering fitting a switchable bypass. Unless I get a Webasto fitted by then.

  9. #9
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    thanks for the info, i'm waiting to get the EGT and then we'll see the outcome,

    as i've had various problems with the cooling system cos the pipes were worn when i bought the car(didnt know much about discos then) and they ceded one by one mostly when i was in the middle of nowhere i made some pure electric mods too to be on the safe side(after all the anciliary/cooling system pipework was replaced with silicone):
    1. introduced a parallel setup with a thermostatic switch on the electric engine cooling(aircon) fan's circuit as to kick in at 100*C instead of 110 as it was set by factory
    2. this additional circuit is used as to activate the webasto's water pump too at the same time...it helps cos it improves the coolant flow
    3. fitted a low cooling warning using the capacitive proximity sensor method

    i also have the larger intercooler fitted and in the summer i used to remove the engine's cover too ...maybe that's why IF the EGT rises to crytical limit with the MAF mod it didnt made any damage yet.

    the problem is that i completely neglected this EGT thing cos it's not very popular around here and i didnt know much about it untill i've joined this forum

    we'll see

    maybe the auto's are a bit more sensitive to these kind of things as theyrs intercooler is smaller than the manual one due to the transmission oil cooler anyway

  10. #10
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    Settings for the MadMan EMS alarms

    Exhaust gas temperature:
    Based on http://www.lrfaq.org/Series/publicat...ureMonitor.pdf
    Maximum safe point - 720*C.
    Normal range - 250*C - 680*C.

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