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Thread: I hate auto cooler lines!

  1. #11
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    I've not inspected it yet, been marking cattle today.
    However.
    I noticed wetness around the top of the turbo dump pipe when I first looked, basically everything rear of that is wet with ATF, it's most prominent in that top, NS of the gearbox.
    I'd dare say it's the rubber - metal joint.

    Found the trail of ATF on the driveway today. Figured I covered less than 1.5km with it leaking out. Most of the driveway at probably 60km. Last limpings of say 500m were in 1st, very gently.
    I'm not expecting damage tbh, but any excuse for an Ashcroft reco

    I'll get it apart and back together soon enough.
    Graeme Cooper offers a 12 month/20k kms warranty on work, which is fair enough.
    These lasted 38k.
    Not happy.
    The Phantom - Oslo Blue 2001 Td5 SE.
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    Nina - Chawton White 2003 Td5 S
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  2. #12
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    Usually, unless the lines have been off recently and if so the blow off the quick release end very rapidly as start up pressure is enough, they detach at the so called "crimp" onto the steel line. There's no viable profile on the steel worthy of attempting to hold the hose.

  3. #13
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    Got a feeling mine don't have the crimps and have been replaced by hose clamps. Will have to check when I am back in town.

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    2003 D2a TD5 Auto
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  4. #14
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    I'd keep a eye on them then, because of the lack of grip on the pipe.

  5. #15
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    See Oil Cooler Hoses, now 3rd time in 10 years

    This is what was done to my D1. 87 County can advise if they are still holding up.





    Ron B.
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    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
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    RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever

  6. #16
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    Thats elmost exactly what I was suggesting Muph except that I uses screw together fittings so you can replace a hose or repair in field. You can see the barbed end for the hose, unfortunately you have to cut the hose off as it'll never pull off. So I just carry a meter of hose (also have used a chaffe and heat sleeve of the lines) and can be replaced in 10min, but have a double barbed and so you can cut out a small section thats damaged and just join it.

  7. #17
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    The thot plickens!

    Finally got myself sorted and had a peak underneath it, all the lines are fine.
    The top hose fitting had unscrewed itself most of the way out!
    WTF!
    Not going to point the finger, but Coopers did go at it pretty hard and fast to ensure I got it back that day, perhaps it's wasn't torqued up correctly. Perhaps it's from my until recently collapsed engine mounts.
    Who knows?
    However, assuming the lines are still okay they'll be staying there until the box comes out for some upgrades
    The Phantom - Oslo Blue 2001 Td5 SE.
    Half dead but will live again!

    Nina - Chawton White 2003 Td5 S
    Slowly being improved

    Quote Originally Posted by Judo View Post
    You worry me sometimes Muppet!!


  8. #18
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    You mean at the Auto end? Check the o-ring is still there.

  9. #19
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    Correct.
    It's not entirely unscrewed but the line is quite wobbly, and the point of origin on the ATFlood under my car is definitely near there.
    I can only assume I shouldn't be able to see threads showing....
    Another interesting thing, there's a piece of string hanging from the auto cooler pipes, maybe 10cm long, folded over the pipe in the middle.
    I'm either having the most peculiar sense of deja vu, or I've seen the exact same thing before...
    The Phantom - Oslo Blue 2001 Td5 SE.
    Half dead but will live again!

    Nina - Chawton White 2003 Td5 S
    Slowly being improved

    Quote Originally Posted by Judo View Post
    You worry me sometimes Muppet!!


  10. #20
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    I've seen part no tags on string before on pipes. And no or very little thread should show, if the o-ring is missing the tube won't be tight in the seat and you can move it by hand.

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