Thread: three amigos again

Yes I believe you thanks. So option b is a modification done to a new switch. I thought it was fixing the old switch? Didn't you say "99%of cases nil wrong with switches, if you want the fix to last buy the modulator too?

for option B you need a new switch pack only if the readings of the old switches are not as they should be or if ther wiring is damaged... you can do the wiring mod to the old or new switches according to that... by buying the expensive SVS assy(SWO500040) you'll be with this particular SVS thing as in new condition and it will last again 10 - 15 years untill you are back were you are now cos the same thing will happen unless they improved something in that assy(quite unlikely)

also to not work in vain with this mod you must make sure first that the earths are good as in this link(a bad earth at those points would give you the same fault so worth a check) http://www.roverparts.com/TechTips/S..._Test_Proc.cfm

I and along with lots of others have done option B and I can assure you it works, if you diagnostic fault is shuttle switches.

And as has been stated, as long as the switches are in spec all should be good.

Jeez this is a painful read.

1. Buy or borrow a Nanocom or Hawkeye.

2. Buy new switches. They will have been swimming in brake fluid for years. For the sake of, what, $80 or something? If you are going to the trouble of removing the ABS unit from the vehicle, do it once and do it properly.

3. Do "Option B". This re-routes the switch signals - instead of passing through the ABS module circuit board, they will travel along a wire. Given the fault is intermittent and increasing in frequency, it's a good bet the the circuit board is the problem.

4. Buy a couple of litres of brake fluid, read up on the bleed process and bleed the system.

Option "B" is a fix for the contacts / tracks/ lands inside the abs being broken (ie those on the printed circuit board). Full stop. It will not fix a crook or dirty sensor, crook connections, crook valve switches or a crook computer (eg channel goes faulty).
If the fault is electrical, changing mechanical parts won't fix it. (ie pump kit).

Simplez.

Ball bag, sorry it's so painful for you. Just trying to understand a technical issue I have no skill in. Not trying save $80. But my mechanic quoted me $1400'to replace the modulator, which I would like to avoid if possible.

Apparently Landrover say to replace the modulator in this instance so that,s what the professional mechanics do. Don't think my mechanic will be willing to do "Option B" outside Landrover guidelines I'm guessing. Who can I get to do it? Don't have the skills myself.

what you should know and already saw on video and tutorial is that for mod option B you dont have to remove the unit and those switches are not supposed to "swim in oil" at all unless the valve seals are gone but that would have caused a leak at the bottom of the modulator cos the switch pack is not sealed to keep oil in as it's not supposed to be oil there ... see this Discovery shuttle valve seals & new style reaining clips

can't you find a handy independent auto electrician there to do the job for you if you show him what to do from the "handyhowie" link? , i dont believe that a guy who runs a repair business will refuse a customer who wants something at it's own discretion which was proved to be harmless in many cases

option b sounds like the go to me. I'll be able to find someone on here who'll do it I reckon!?!? Failing that an auto electrician.