Help Required in the Flinders Ranges

Quote:

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Originally Posted by alien

I know it's left field but the first thing I thought of was the harmonic balancer.
It will rattle at idle and can cause idle vibrations if the rubber has "let go".
For piece of mind check there is rotational movement.
Cheers Kyle.

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Hi Kyle,


When you say to check for rotational movement, how would I do this? When the engine is running the harmonic balancer is turning and there seems to be no untoward play - visually that is.


Cheers,


Franz
(there could be worse places to be stranded than Wilpena Pound :-) at least I have an internet connection here :-)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Graeme

If the injector fault is cleared does it re-occur? Your new loom may have a broken wire at the injector connector. If so then I understand they are quite repairable.

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Hi Graeme,


I had missed that fault code. It would appear that it was cleared and did not re-appear - I'll check it again in the morning.


How would I check for a broken wire if it was not visual?


Given that I have replaced the loom with a spare that I have previously cleaned but can't vouch for its functionality, one would have to wonder about the chances of having two looms with a broken wire?


Cheers,


Franz

Quote:

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Originally Posted by LandyAndy

Its crankshaft position sensor,located on the belhousing,drivers side.Not likeley to be the issue,if thats faulty its a show stopper,ie no engine running at all.
With all them faults Im going with oil in the harness.Have you checked the plug at the front of the head???? If thats contaminated clean it and keep cleaning until you get home.Oil may not have reached the ECU yet.

ALSO,CHECK YOUR FUEL,even by draining some from the filter drain,IS IT CONTAMINATED WITH PETROL!!!!You will smell it if it is.

GOODLUCK
Andrew

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HI EvilGT,


EGR is bypassed.


I drained the fuel filter jus in case and that has not made a difference. Oil appears to be OK.


Small wiring loom at the front of the head had it's wire shroud replaced not too long ago as the original was falling to pieces - I'll have a look tomorrow to rule this in or out though.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by LandyAndy

Its crankshaft position sensor,located on the belhousing,drivers side.Not likeley to be the issue,if thats faulty its a show stopper,ie no engine running at all.
With all them faults Im going with oil in the harness.Have you checked the plug at the front of the head???? If thats contaminated clean it and keep cleaning until you get home.Oil may not have reached the ECU yet.

ALSO,CHECK YOUR FUEL,even by draining some from the filter drain,IS IT CONTAMINATED WITH PETROL!!!!You will smell it if it is.

GOODLUCK
Andrew

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Hi Andrew,


Yes, checked the plug at the front of the head - it's fine and I also replaced the loom under the rocker cover with an old spare.


I'm not sure if it would be fuel - it's been running fine for 3/4's of a tank on the same fuel and has just started to play up at 1/4 full. I did drain the fuel filter but the fuel looked normal.


Cheers,


Franz

Quote:

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Originally Posted by alien

I know it's left field but the first thing I thought of was the harmonic balancer.
It will rattle at idle and can cause idle vibrations if the rubber has "let go".
For piece of mind check there is rotational movement.
Cheers Kyle.

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agree, had multiple ghost faults on a 2010 transit, turned out to be harmonic.
or could be bad earth????
Good luck

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Franz

Hi Kyle,


When you say to check for rotational movement, how would I do this? When the engine is running the harmonic balancer is turning and there seems to be no untoward play - visually that is.


Cheers,


Franz
(there could be worse places to be stranded than Wilpena Pound :-) at least I have an internet connection here :-)

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With the motor off see if you can get the serpentine belt to move.
If the harmonic is damaged you'll get about 50mm of easy movement.
If you cant move the belt by hand then it's as it should be.


I've only passed Wilpena once on our way to Arkaroola, it's on the "go back to" list.

I am not an expert on this, but the day I bought my 2002 D2 it stopped on the way home.
I was driving along and the dash lit up , first with the 3 amigos , then just about every light.
Now I didn't have a nanocom then ,but later when I got one it had injector faults and lots of others recorded.
The problem was simply that the negative battery terminal on the battery had a heap of acid bloom in it which caused a bad earth intermittently . I had to cut the terminal off as the bolt was jammed.( The PO had spent $650 with a mechanic? looking for the fault as it had done the same on a test drive . At least I got a new idler pulley out of it)
Once I had a new terminal , I have never had another fault except for 1 x3 amigos in 18 months.
Regards Philip A

Quote:

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Originally Posted by PhilipA

I am not an expert on this, but the day I bought my 2002 D2 it stopped on the way home.
I was driving along and the dash lit up , first with the 3 amigos , then just about every light.
Now I didn't have a nanocom then ,but later when I got one it had injector faults and lots of others recorded.
The problem was simply that the negative battery terminal on the battery had a heap of acid bloom in it which caused a bad earth intermittently . I had to cut the terminal off as the bolt was jammed.( The PO had spent $650 with a mechanic? looking for the fault as it had done the same on a test drive . At least I got a new idler pulley out of it)
Once I had a new terminal , I have never had another fault except for 1 x3 amigos in 18 months.
Regards Philip A

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Thanks Philip,


Battery posts are fine - virtually a brand new battery and I had both the positive and negatives off and reconnected yesterday.


I've had no dash fault lights at all.


I think I'll check the integrity of the CKP sensor, the voltage from that to the ECM and the earth points and see if that makes a difference.


Cheers,


Franz

If the injector fault doesn't return then I wouldn't look further into it. If the wire is broken then it should pull away from the connector but perhaps stretch the insulation if that's still attached. However as the lumpiness existed prior to fitting this loom then its more likely to be a faulty injector if the fault returns, but hopefuly not.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Graeme

If the injector fault doesn't return then I wouldn't look further into it. If the wire is broken then it should pull away from the connector but perhaps stretch the insulation if that's still attached. However as the lumpiness existed prior to fitting this loom then its more likely to be a faulty injector if the fault returns, but hopefuly not.

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Hi Graeme,


The injector fault has returned. So you think injector #2 is crook?


Looking at RAVE, it does say:


In the event of a CKP sensor signal failure any of the following symptoms may be observed:


- Engine misfires (CKP sensor incorrectly fitted).


- Engine runs roughly or even stalls (CKP sensor incorrectly fitted).


I've had a look for the CKP on the drivers side of the bell housing but can't find anything - am I looking in the correct spot?


Cheers,


Franz
(looking for and checking earth points!)