Thread: Which new exhaust manifold studs?

You'll find a list of known providers offering ceramic coating at http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-...nifolds-2.html

Don't think any are in Brisbane though.

Originally Posted by Islandnomad

any suggestions where that can be done in Brisbane?

Thermal Edge Coating

$185 for an exhaust manifold from the mob above. That includes all preparatory work ie. media blasting (garnet IIRC).

And also Ben at APT Fabrications - $160 for the exhaust manifold. APT are at Tingalpa.

I replaced my studs with D1 300Tdi studs, they are 10mm, had the head taped to take the new studs, then ground the webbing out between the ports and re-fitted the manifold, no more issues again.

$50 for new studs and re-tapping of the head, ground the webbing out myself.

Baz.

Spoke to JE Engineering today, their response as follows:


"The process we use is to re-face (flatten out) the original manifold and then fit to the head using a genuine gasket and out stud/spacer set. Our stud and spacer kit allows the manifold to expand and contract with each cycle therefore reducing the potential to warp the manifold. We have had lots of success with this simple kit".


Don't really see how this can work but apparently it does?

Land Rover TD5 Uprahttp://www.ebay.com.au/itm/301331739675'ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p398 4.m1423.l2649ted Wurth Manifold Studs X10 AND Copper Nuts X10 | eBay


I found the above manifold studs at DLS today link above, made by Wurth in Germany, the blurb about these studs on that site is as follows:


"FORGET THE LAND ROVER MANIFOLD STUDS THAT ARE MADE OF CHEESE. THESE ARE QUALITY MADE GERMAN WURTH STUDS TO FIT THE LAND ROVER TD5. THIS AUCTION IS FOR TEN STUDS AND 10 COPPER FLASHED LOCKING NUTS TO SUIT THE TD5 EXHAUST MANIFOLD WITH STAINLESS WASHERS.

NOTORIOUS FOR SNAPPING STUDS THE TD5 EXHAUST MANIFOLD PROBLEMS ARE AS LEGENDARY AS THE LAND ROVER BRAND ITSELF. THESE STUDS ARE MADE FROM MUCH BETTER STEEL THAN LAND ROVER ONES AND SLIGHTLY LONGER. THE EXTRA LENGTH MEANS BETTER HEAT DISSIPATION AND THE COPPER FLASHED NUTS ALLOW THEM TO BE MORE EASILY REMOVED WITH LESS RISK OF BRAKING. WURTH STUDS ARE WIDELY REGARDED AS THE BEST STEEL STUDS TO USE UNLESS YOU WANT TO SPEND SILLY MONEY AND JUST AS EFFECTIVE. DON'T BE TEMPTED TO USE STAINLESS. WHILST PERHAPS STRONGER STAINLESS ALSO BECOMES MORE BRITTLE WITH HEAT CYCLES, AND YOU ACTUALLY WANT A DEGREE OF FLEXIBILITY AS THIS IS WHY THE STUDS BREAK.


SOLUTIONS FOR WARPED MANIFOLDS AND BROKEN STUDS INCLUDE DEWEBBING THE MANIFOLD, SLIGHTLY ENLARGING THE STUD HOLES ON THE MANIFOLD ON CYLINDERS 1 AND 5 AND HAVING WARPED MANIFOLDS SKIMMED FLAT. THE THEORY BEING ONCE THE HEAT HAS AFFECTED THE MANIFOLD IT WILL HAVE DONE ITS WARPING SO ONCE SKIMMED "SHOULD" STAY FLAT. THESE STUDS ARE ANOTHER WEAPON TO TRY AND ELIMINATE THESE MANIFOLD PROBLEMS. WHAT EVER YOU DO DO NOT SIMPLY REPLACE THE STUDS AND TRY AND PULL IN A WARPED MANIFOLD. IT MAY LOOK NICE AND FLUSH BUT THE EXTRA TENSION CAN EASILY BREAK THE STUDS OR WORSE PULL THE STUDS OUT OF THE HEAD. HAPPY BIDDING. "

I bought a set of these Wurth studs/nuts/washers .... I've yet to fit them though.

Sent from my iPad using Braille

Washers too, are they copper? Is the flange ground flat to take a washer, I thought that was one of the reasons they snap, they get bent slightly when you tighten them up??

De-web, de-web, de-web, I used a 3mm grinder disc to detension my manifold after it had warped AGAIN after being machined, it had had hacksaw width cuts made previously and I thought making a wider cut may help.
As it had been machined before (once by me, how many times before that I don't know) I thought the best idea would be to take it to a machine shop that I know works on cylinder heads (cast iron) and they have an oven to heat them. I thought it may be best to try take some of the warp out with heat and stress then machine the remainder.
When I got my cylinder head back it had been de-webbed as well as straightened and machined and I have not had a problem since.

Regards


Mike