Fitting a longer bump stop reduces wheel travel, not ideal when off roading.
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Fitting a longer bump stop reduces wheel travel, not ideal when off roading.
Jake, hope the trips going well.
The switch shouldn't lower to the bump stops, it just goes down to a preset level ( loading / access height ) I think 1 or 2" lower than ride height. It maybe slightly off calibration. I believe if you block it up, it will continue to release air, and as the height hasn't changed, it will then throw a fault. It will also have more work to do to pump it up, and the same will happen, through a fault if it doesn't change height. Have you tried not lowering until you are unloaded? Or leave a door open?
Trip is going well so far, thanks! I did adjust the SLS with the nanocom so the unevenness is probably that.
However, if I park and unpack roof tent it stays at ride height, even with doors being open/closed but when we get in it to sleep it lowers over night with the SLS fuse out.
As both sides deflate would that suggest the compressor has a slight leak or is there a separate fuse for the compressor that needs to be removed, or does it have some sort of pressure relief valve as an extra 150kg up top would make a difference?
It should stay at it's height. I would suspect a leak if it is dropping.
Just had a thought, if you move about in the night and the car is then uneven ( side - side ) the sls would then lower the higher side. I have never checked how long it is active for though.
I wondered that, I think it's active for 30 mins after a door is open so may happen as we get in (one at a time which puts weight to one side over the other), however it still happened with fuse 28 (SLS and abs) out so may be a leak (although it doesn't sink normally)
I think I used to pull a relay out, but can't remember which one
Possibly too much rocking n rolling...:p
A bit like when you jack the car up to change tyres and the SLS keeps on letting the car down.
Mine drops about three inches. As for the blocks of wood.Quote:
Originally Posted by blindin
Air is released for two reasons. 1/ I a load/weight is removed from the vehicle
the vehicle will raise. The sensors will see this and let out air to return to correct height.
2/ An air leak. If you have a leak air will escape only if it is under load. If you put blocks of wood in, as soon as the blocks took up there would no longer be a load on the bags, so they would stop leaking.
As soon as you turn on the ignition or open a door(assuming that they are closed) the compressor will start, put in air and bring ride height back to normal.
If you put in blocks and lower it with your switch onto the blocks, until you raise it again it will see the lowered height as normal and not try to alter it.
No fault should be logged.
The tyre hitting the guard also reduces wheel travel anyway and is less than ideal...Quote:
Originally Posted by d2dave
I have adden a manual control to SLS - I'm able to rise a lower each bag separately. I'm using it also with RTT - to level the car before night.
I made it from basic wires, switches and diodes.
For your problem with lowering - just add some small swith between SLABS ECU and exhaust valve. If this stop lowering, your problem is electrical - SLABS is lowering the car. If not, you have a leak somewhere.
Manual controll is also usable, in case of some damage - I had to drive 800km with on bag exploded. So on one side the car was on bumpstop and the second was manually partly deflated. On a smooth road, I was able to drive 100km/h.
I have some 5cm suspention lift (spacers between axle and bags), and longer bump stops. Proper bumpstops are essential for long live of shocks and for cas of a damage. With 235/85/R16 AT tyres I had no problems with rubbing.