Thread: D2 td5 poor start and low power on hills

Hi Ermo, big first post and well done do far in your persisting!

Have you checked that you are actually getting boost pressure ?

Eg check the wastegate moves freely when disconnected from the actuatôr, then test the wastegate actuator does it's job when some air pressure is applied through the small hose - I use a bike pump.

Try adjusting the wastegate up then.

Also checked the turbo hoses ?

Im new here too and learning about LDs foibles. Just a thought, could there be water contamination or partial blockage in the fuel pump? Also i have read here on this site that there have be known instances where rubber has delaminated from inside the rubber hose section of the air intake tract. This causes a number of erratic running issues.
I will follow this thread as part of my ongoing education of British techknowledge. The phrase " Best of British Luck" comes to mind.
I hope you resolve these issues without further frustrations.
Cheers

Hi, beside the above inputs, based on those fault codes, i think that the injector faults were due to the injector loom which now it's fixed, the MAF as well, those balances between +/- 5 are good enough, check fuse F2 in engine bay fusebox to rule it out, if this is checked and ok what you didnt do and can cause those running issues is the AAP sensor(in the airbox) as you've got that ambient pressure fault code as well...get hold of a known good one if you can cos new for your engine is friggin expensive.. or check live readings if you have access to tester, it must read around 100kPa(actually the real ambient pressure where you are) and drop max 2-3 units under hard throttle, ine of the symptoms of this sensor is "altitude compensation inoperative" (speaking about hills)... replace the depression controll valve(crankcase breather/manifold pressure valve...how ever it sounds better for you) if you know it's old... this one can mix up things too

do you still have EGR?... anyway clean the MAP/IAT sensor on the inlet manifold, this one can make you trouble as well, live readings can reveal things on this too

a live reading about the fuel temp would be good cos fuel temp sensor fault can give you big consumption and bad starting and it has no warning... or simply replace it cos this one is cheap, the same with the engine coolant temp sensor, which can make trouble as well if it has low readings, the gauge will go to the middle when the reading from this sensor is 70*C and stay there untill 120*C so if this sensor has low reading will affect consumption, i saw cases when aftermarket ECT sensor made trouble as it gave lower readings that the real temp and the engine management increased fueling even though the engine temp was normal

enough for now IMO

I still have egr fitted. Have had thoughts of removing it, not sure how big difference it might give.
I haven't checked wastegate and have not adjusted it. Have to find some information how this adjustment actually have to be carried out.
I have some live readings printed out. Can not remember what was the engine temp status though.
Coolant temp +60,5
Inlet air temp +42,2
Fuel rail temp +49,7
Manifold pressure 100,56 kpa
Ambient pressure 101,47 kpa
Air flow 62,7
Weird thing i just realised it shows egr inlet throttle not fitted. I still have egr fitted though.

I will clean map and recheck live data once engine is warm.
As mentioned i checked wiring for maf and ambient pressure sensor. Fuse is ok. Sensor gets voltage. No shorts to live neither ground neither shorts to other signal wires. No open circuit. So i would eliminate wiring.
As i remember wiring diagram showed one signal wire for map and ambient is common? I might be wrong here. Will check it again tomorrow.
Coming back to this crankcase breather valve. Its the one between valve cover and air hose kind of top to rotor oil filter? Is there any way i could connect it straight to eliminate it or check operation? Just do not want to start changing parts when not sure it actually needed replacing.

I will keep it updated

Here you have info about that manifold depression valve: http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-...ion-valve.html , you can't check if it's working OK or not, only if it's completely shot... normally the MAP reading must be the same with the AAP reading at idle, I'm sure that the MAP is pretty gunked if EGR is still on... inlet throttle was fitted only on later modells(late 2001 on, those with 15P engines)

feed from F2 is to MAF, EGR modulator and wastegate modulator, AAP gets feed directly from ECM on the same circuit with MAP/IAT

I had very little time to deal with my car today. Checked map and it was properly covered with thick oily mass. Cleaned it all up. No difference noticed.
I was just wondering how much td5 relies on glow plugs? Im originally from euro and in winter time and when its gold it is important. Now mornings are warm and even during the day its warm but it still struggles first start.
i will check glow plugs tomorrow. Also will check witing again to map, maf and aap. I should have access to mickywick to test wastegate also.

Check the vacuum line from the boost modulator switch down to the section of metal pipe in between the turbo & intercooler.
It can go soft & split, losing power.

As i previously wrote i removed this valve and fitted vacuum hose straight from this turbo metal pipe to turbo already.