Thread: Wheel alignment 04 Discovery 2A

Is your suspension setup standard?

Castor is not adjustable without special bushes or plates.

The vehicle should be TOE OUT between 0 - 2mm total (most aligners try to put it toe in). I have found if this is not done I get awful steering shuddering. But yours looks to have this.

Have you checked the pressures on your new wheels?

I get the same if I run at 35 PSI, dropping the front back down to 28 PSI and all is sorted.

Toe in/out does not affect pulling, it is caster, which is non adjustable.

This was discussed two days ago here

P38 DIY wheel alignment.

The vehicle discussed here is a P38 but steering wise is the same as a D2

Re your questions twr7cx

I'm running the same tyre pressures in front at 35 psi as I always have. I've tried dropping to 30psi to test but no change
All I've changed is the tyre size from 255-65 x 16 fitted by previous owner to 245-75 x 16 to gain a little extra height for off road. Tyre rolling radius is similar
Suspension is standard height
Toe out is same setting as was with previous tyres.
I'm running out of ideas!!
Can anyone help?

It could be the tyres.

Tyres with square shoulders will tend to follow ruts and tramline.

This is particularly true of mud terrains or I guess aggressive ATs.

I took the MTs off the steering wheels on my old 76 RRC because of the nibbling and darting.

My D2 tracks much better than my RRC as the D2 has neutral scrub geometry unlike the old RRCs, and I have no trouble with nibbling even though I have square shoulder BFG ATKO.

If your ball joints are had it, new tyres could exacerbate self steering.
Regards Philip A

I've had this with the BFGs, fiddle with higher tire pressures.

I am running Goodyear Duratraks which are a very aggressive AT and it drives beautiful.

It is much better than the Pirelli road tyres that were on it and they used to tram track

also check very carefully for any play in the steering track rod ends, and drag link tie rod ends.

jc