Using Ajd. Headlight switch as fog/LB 3 way switch

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Originally Posted by dwarfmarine

Cheers Paul, that's exactly the kinda of info I was chasing!

Might have to trace a set of that down somewhere.
Not sure how it'll fit in the position on the Disco, but I'm sure I can figure something out.
Even if it means I have to hide the switch mechanism somewhere- I'm trying to avoid cutting/drilling into dash pieces that can't be easily replaced (blanking panels)

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The 3-way switch (#3) would fit into the R/H lower facia panel (#1), next to the door mirror adjustment control (#2) -

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...014/12/804.jpg


As your D2 doesn't have headlamp levelling, you will have the blanking piece (#4) in place of the control switch.

This blanking piece unclips - the switch clips-in in its place, and is retained by the spindle locknut.

As you can see from the previous pictures of the Rover blower switch, the switch's terminals are 6.3mm male blades, which can connected to, using individual 6.3mm female terminals - or, the proper 6-way latching connector, which can be found on Rovers and Land Rovers - or new from me ;)


Paul.

1989 Arles Blue 2.5TD 110 Hardtop
1999 Epsom Green Discovery II 4.0 V8i 'XS'

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...016/05/756.jpg

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Awesome! thanks for that Paul, great help!

Just ordered a complete blower fan switch through Britcar-

YUK10003 | HEATER FAN SWITCH METRO ROVER | Genuine Old Stock | | Britcar (UK) Ltd

Certainly not the cheapest option, coming in at $37 AUD shipped, but its a complete unit with locknut and knob going by the picture.


Now to work out the actual wiring to go behind it!

ill really only need 2 of the positions (out of a possible 4)
Ill probably leave position 0 (nothing) as the lights behind hard-wired, switchable any time
Then make one of the other positions linked into the headlights/highbeam signal.


(Im also guessing that this switch block in not illuminated going by the wiring diagram?)

I Think this is how i should be wiring it?
(i dont yet have the 3 way switch and am yet to work out the pin configuration when it gets to that part)

someone please correct me if i'm wrong

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dwarfmarine

J(Im also guessing that this switch block in not illuminated going by the wiring diagram?)

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Yes, it is illuminated - the Fan symbol, and the positions I, II, and III illuminate in Orange.

This is done by a bulb wearing an Orange 'condom', which is soldered to the switch's circuit board.

This 'condom' can be changed for one of whatever colour you want, see here - Accessories items in caps store on eBay!


Rover and Land Rover don't show switch illumination on the same page of the wiring diagram as the wiring for the switch's function.

"Interior Illumination" is shown on separate page, and shows the illumination wiring for all of the switches, dash, clocks, controls, etc...

For this blower switch -

Illumination live is on Pin-4

Earth is on Pin-3


The pins are numbered, like this -

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...014/12/638.jpg

The drawing is of the rear of the connector (the side that the cable enters from)


In the Rover 100, this switch earths-down the tap-offs from the blower motor's resistor, via Pin-3 to earth (see diagram in my earlier post)

Because the switch switches to earth, and the bulb shares this earth, it makes it difficult (but not impossible) to use this switch as a live-switching rotary switch and retain the illumination.

If you look at the back of the switch, you'll see that pins 1 and 3 are connected together by a busbar.

If you cut this busbar (using something like a Dremel), separating pins 1 and 3 - then, the switch's bulb will be across pins 1 and 4, and separated from the switching function.


This will allow you to use the switch as live-switching rotary switch with illumination, either as -

Pin 3 input - with selectable outputs on pins 6 (position I), 2 (position II), and 5 (position III)

or -

Selectable inputs on - pins 6 (position I), 2 (position II), and 5 (position III) - with a common output on pin 3


If you're not bothered about having the switch illuminated - then, you can use the switch connections as above - but, don't connect an illumination live to pin 4, and no need to cut the busbar between pins 1 and 3


Paul.

1989 Arles Blue 2.5TD 110 Hardtop
1999 Epsom Green Discovery II 4.0 V8i 'XS'

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...016/05/756.jpg

.

Thanks a bunch Paul! Super helpful

I'll report back once I've received the switch from Britparts and start playing around!

I'll illumination doesn't bother me, but it would be nice

Paul, switch arrived today from Britpart, complete with locknut and knob.

Worked perfectly the way I was aiming for!
Thanks heaps, absolute legend!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dwarfmarine

Paul, switch arrived today from Britpart, complete with locknut and knob.

Worked perfectly the way I was aiming for!
Thanks heaps, absolute legend!

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That's good to hear, thanks for letting me know https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...014/12/224.jpg


Paul.

1989 Arles Blue 2.5TD 110 Hardtop
1999 Epsom Green Discovery II 4.0 V8i 'XS'

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...016/05/756.jpg

.

Currently thinking of doing the same thing in my Disco so I can swap from Lightforce driving lights that come on with high beam to yellow filtered fog lights than can be lit with just sidelights...

The cosmetic question; how do you do away with the fan symbol on the van switch?

Dwarfmarine, any update?

I presume you used pin 3 as the output back to the lights relay, pin 6 for input from the highbeam circuit (on position 1) and pin 2 for independent lighting (position 2)? Where did you grab input for pin 2?

Looking under my dash I was thinking of grabbing it from the mirror switch or cigarette lighter and wondering if there are pitfalls with either (other than tracing the wires from the cigarette lighter)

Is there a way of only lighting up the switch only when turned on to position 1, 2 or 3 rather than with general dash illumination?