The important thing with this issue IMO is the fob.
Does it illuminate when pressed.
If not it may be a battery issue.
2330 3volt battery pretty common in fob's and lots of little LED lights.
If you can't get a battery of the right type can you get two 1.5volt battery's tape them together to get 3volts use wire and tape to connect to +& - on the fob.
Not pretty but should work.
This should get fob to illuminate when pressed.
It should also unlock and remove the immobiliser.
If it does not unlock but fob light illuminates you may have a RF receiver fault.
Until you can remove the immobiliser Nanocom will be useless yes you can read the EKA code numbers but you need to send a signal to BCU via RF receiver first before BCU will communicate with Nanocom.
have a good one :D ken :wasntme:
MY07 L320 RANGE ROVER SPORT MORE GOODNESS TO COME
MY03 D2A TD5 EXTRA GOODIE ENHANCED :D now parting from life
1996 D1 300TDI GONE
08 ford ranger c/c
WRECKING DISCOVERY 2
PM ME FOR WHAT YOU ARE LOOKING FOR
In the BCU Utility section.
The link below is the full nanocom info regarding what does what in the BCU
http://www.nanocom-diagnostics.com/d.../304055373.pdf
Si
Last edited by PsiDOC; 25th December 2014 at 08:48 PM. Reason: Stop live link
You can even set your own EKA if you want.... but only after you remobilised it so if you dont know the original EKA now that's not relevant
Discovery Td5 (2000), manual, tuned
Yes, I played with those settings as well but if I then disconnected the 10AS unit it would not start. So I think I meant was that even with those settings disabled (so that the key etc will not ever enable the 10AS immobilizer) the ECU will still talk to the 10AS unit on startup to check if it is immobilized or not, and that this is the function that you can't change with Nanocom - I could be wrong though
That is the bit that BAS took out for me. It doesn't matter if I disconnect the 10AS unit completely. Everything still works.
I leave it in there though in case I need to put my spare standard ECU back in
Just to clarify some stuff here, this discussion needs a few clarifications.
Immobiliser V Alarm System. The D2 has a complex system, in fact I defy anyone to unlock a door even with a window down once the ALARM is set.
The Alarm System is the entire system, volumetric sensor (if fitted), engine immobiliser, door locking system, bonnet sensor etc.
The immobiliser is just the engine immobiliser. It can be disabled, you can lock/unlock doors, open/close windows, read your EKA and set a better one and a host of other things all with Nanocom. There's also a transport mode which disables the immobiliser and does other strange things.
To access the BCU you need to shut down the Alarm System, which unlocks the doors, shuts down the Engine Immobiliser and begins a power up on some of the other ECU's and establishes preliminary checksums. Immobiliser status is irrelevant to access to the BCU. Else as soon as you disabled it you could never get back in to enable it because it would require enablement to enable.
I completely agree with the statement that the alarm is a ''whole'' and it comprises all the features so no immobiliser without alarm or vice-versa(except the passive immobiliser which is independent and can be disabled separately)...BUT you can disable the alarm completely in BCU settings which means the immobiliser too but that will let you the central door locking... the alarm has two stages, armed or disarmed, in the armed status it can get triggered which means immobilised... to acess the BCU the alarm must be in disarmed status simple as that but even if it's disabled you can re-enable it when ever you want
there are faults or cases when the alarm was disarmed with the fob but the immobiliser is still active, the red led is on all the time and doesnt let you crank it, this is a case when even with disarmed alarm(the audible and visual side of it) you'll not be able to acess the BCU being immobilised, which can be due to a system fault or the passive immobiliser as well cos the passive immobiliser(if it's not disabled) will keep it immobilised after the alarm was disarmed with the fob if the remobilisation coil didnt do it's job for one reason or another
IMO what we can all agree 100% is that it's a very complex thing
Discovery Td5 (2000), manual, tuned
There is an option in Nanocom "disable active immobilisation" which it seems to me disables the alarm as there is no flashing light on the dash.
But I think this still leaves passive immobilisation ie the key fob when inserted to the ignition communicates with the ECU and allows start.
I have had the situation when near RF interference a couple of times with no start, and have had to do a reboot, ie lock doors unlock then reinsert key to start.
Regards Philip A
Search AULRO.com ONLY! |
Search All the Web! |
---|
|
|
Bookmarks