Thread: Castor correction 2'' lift D2a TD5

I had a 2" lift done about 9 years ago on my 2004 disco and have not done a caster correction.

After the lift it did wander a little bit more than normal but only a little. I lowered the tyre pressure back to recommended (rather that a few psi higher that I had been doing) and found it helped. I get more problem with camber now that its 10 years old.

Thanks for the info. I can run up to 40PSI in my tires so I think caster correction is the go.

Mine was skittish with a 2" lift and no castor correction. Put in an adjustable panhard rod, about 1/4 longer than stock. Problem solved.

Hello Jazzman,

No castor correction necessary. Just a good wheel alignment. I had mine lifted 3 or 4 years ago(2") and the steering was absolutely shocking. Tram lining or something similar I think it's called. The bloody thing wouldn't want to turn and then it would take off in the direction you were trying to turn. Anyway all is good since a wheel alignment.

Cheers,

Jason

PS, mines a D2 not D2a

Mine did with similiar lift. Lived without castor correction for a year and loved it once it was done. Drives like a dream on the highway now - BUT i admit the changing of front steering knuckle upper and lower balljoints made a huge differnce also. Mine is tigher on the highway now than the day I bought it new in stock spec in 2002.

Cheers

Personal preference. I prefer it being done but plenty get by without it.

When you lift the axle also moves sideways, so thats the need for the adjustable (or at least corrected length) panhard rod. IF you have a 2a. with the shorter panhard you MAY get away with fitting an earlier panhard which is longer. But I haven't measured the offset required and it will vary across lifts and with age (sag), so the adjustable units are probably a better bet overall. the offset of the axle will cause more erratic steering problems than the castor. imagine the wheels, front to rear are parallel but not inline down the length of the vehicle. so now any ruts in the rd (even on bitumen) will have the car crabbing and so you turn the wheel slightly to "straighten" the front wheels but the rear still want to go straight.

Castor correction seems to be a personal thing. an increase in castor will have the steering react more quickly or sharply to any inputs from the driver. So it can improve steering reaction time, which can be a bit lazy, but too much makes it very tiring to drive as you're constantly reacting to every bump on the road (the D2 has more bump steer over the 2a which is why the panhard was shortened by relocating the chassis mount). My lift from new was slightly more than the 50mm stated as there isn't the weight that the HD springs would normally have. It ended up around 70mm and so had a lot more castor than expected but I got some 3deg corrected arms from QT and it reduced it enough to be drivable but still have better response than usual.

Wiki details
Caster angle - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

There's a very good description here;
Caster, Camber, Toe