It looks like mine with no spline nipple, and I assume mine is the original on my 2002MY TD5 auto now with 167KK but bought with 134KK.
Regards Philip A
I just pulled my front driveshaft off as it has started chirping in hot weather. I have now found play one of the joints.
It doesn't have a spline grease nipple like all the ones on the web and looks nothing like the ones on the web. It doesn't look like the GKN one's on the web ether??
Anybody know what shaft I have???
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Last edited by DiscoKym; 11th January 2015 at 01:06 PM. Reason: Big pictures
It looks like mine with no spline nipple, and I assume mine is the original on my 2002MY TD5 auto now with 167KK but bought with 134KK.
Regards Philip A
Looks like the front shaft off my D2a ... now replaced by a TW shaft.
Undo the steel band, slide the rubber gaiter back and you'll find there's no spline !!! The spline is replaced by a set of bearing balls set into the shaft which slides in/out of the outer tube ... mine has ****loads of grease in it, hence no grease nipple.
I believe this was an update (facelift models) to reduce vibration levels.
Kev..
Kev..
2014 Isuzu MUX LST with fruit
2008 Isuzu D-Max
2015 Kimberley Kamper "Classic"
Gone ... 2004 D2a Td5 Auto "Classic Country" Vienna Green
Well I dropped it to Hardy Spicer today......
I have the newer (2A) friction welded drive shaft and the kit is for the older shaft. :-(
However they will now make me a super shaft with all heavy duty parts.
Heavy duty 1310 Uni front, spline yokes and 25R double cardon unit.
He looked at the tom woods unit and picked a few poor engineering things. He of cause said he could do better..
Are they starting from scratch or using your existing shaft and adding new yolks, unis etc.
10 points for doing something about it before the double cardon disintegrated and took out your gearbox as in the case with many.
Erich
They didn't know the strength of the standard shaft so they are starting off from scratch.
He chopped and changed available front yolk sets until he got one with a long spline that he can fit a boot over for reliability, chose a suitable tube, and then mounting the Hardy Spicer 800-2540 Discovery 25R Double Cardon unit. They have quoted $860.
On another thread it's called the Ultimate upgrade shaft.
[/QUOTE]
A "Ultimate" upgrade consists of a 1310 upgrade at the diff end plus a 25R double cardan at the transfer end. This is a Toyota joint with massive unis and a specially made flange for the transfer end. The 25R joint is approx $460- plus $60- for the 1310 uni plus assy and balancing. Approx total $900-.
[/QUOTE]
I am planning a trip so it was on the check list but it started chirping so made a little more urgent. Great info from these pages...![]()
Last edited by DiscoKym; 13th January 2015 at 09:22 PM. Reason: added an E
Massive unis? A 1310 is basically the same size as the current Rover ones. Just cheaper and easier to source.
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