Reverting to Standard Suspension

Okay, I worked it out after I RTFM'ed.

To get it to go down, you either use an optional, extra-cost remote (!!!) or go over 40 km/h.....

Is it just me or is that weird? :)

The optional remote is not to lower it to STD height, but rather to lower and raise to/ from the bump stops to std height when hitching up a trailer.

As prev stated a push of the button ( May need to hold for a sec) should do exactly the same thing as driving over 40 kmh.

Ps : doors must be closed

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ramblingboy42

very stiff springs DaveA , are what is really affecting your ride.

measure the coil diameter and the number of coils and you will see what you have over standard.

if you change back to standard you will probably need to change your dampers back too , as I'm assuming it's lifted as well.

should have no problem getting original bits as so many D2's have been lifted.

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I disagree with this. It's usually to do with shock absorber valving.

Most aftermarket D2 front springs are in the 180 to 220 lb range... not realyyyyy that heavy, but with El-cheap-crap shocks, such as Terrible Firmness, the ride is ruined.

D2's never rode as well as D1's or RRC's off the shelf, but they can be made to behave well if you have your wits about you and know what to pick to bolt on!

There is a running joke that when the D2 release was done, all the dealers rocked up in RR's or D1's and were appalled by the ride, and lack of rear steer offered by the D2! Dad still doesn't shut up about it to this day!

Bollocks to that. The d2 for drivers who push through corners is much better than a d1. The d1 from the factory had a nicer ride compliance but can get bouncy on bad outback roads. The d2 was always more planted and steered better. I love d1's but they dont handle as well as a d2 and on long sections of rough stuff the d2 is all over it.

Cheers

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ozscott

Bollocks to that. The d2 for drivers who push through corners is much better than a d1. The d1 from the factory had a nicer ride compliance but can get bouncy on bad outback roads. The d2 was always more planted and steered better. I love d1's but they dont handle as well as a d2 and on long sections of rough stuff the d2 is all over it.

Cheers

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Call bollocks all you want, I was sitting in the back seat of one.

The steering on a D2 is much better than RRC or D1 because the ball joints allow there to be "Neutral Scrub Radius" as they can sit inside the wheel on its centerline which the swivels on a D1 do not. This is particularly so with wide wheels on a D1 vs D2.

The ride is worse because the anti roll bars are much bigger on a D2 than a D1 but this also allows much less body roll in corners. Off road without traction control a D2 would not be as good as a D1, without ACE that is. Traction control is magic.
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With ACE I guess the ride would be better also but IMHO just another thing to go wrong. I only have springs all round and no ACE, but I prefer it that way. I may get some front bar disconnects however .
Regards Philip A

I have had a d1 and d2 since new Mr LR. You would have been too young to drive at that time i assume... ride and handing from a driver's perspective and from a rear seat passenger perspective can be v different

I'm thinking that it IS the shocks, because the rear is (I presume) standard airbag and it's just as stiff as the front, which has aftermarket springs.

Maybe I need to change the four shocks & the front springs, although it has that ARB nudge bar which would add a bit of heft to the front.

Hmmm...... Maybe I'll just try some softer shocks first and see how that feels.

I bought my standard from here,make sure you get the sls shocks they are different.I still havn't found anyone that will tell me any of the koni etc mob ride is not hardened,I think simply that no one can find the standard valving.
Discovery 2 Front Standard Shock Absorbers at www.rimmerbros.co.uk

I thought this was general knowledge but obviously not.

Your shock absorbers are your springs.

What you are calling shockers are dampers.

Dampers control the oscillations of the shock absorbers (springs) which would become uncontrollable if not damped.

If your dampers are not properly matched to your springs , that is where you start to get uncomfortable ride as the dampers work against your spring rates either too much or too little.

Incorrect and/or worn dampers affect the ability of the spring to work correctly throughout its travel and can make a significant difference to braking as the dampers control the speed of the forward pitch of the vehicle under breaking.

That is why expert advice should be sought when lifting or changing springs and dampers in your car.