Added a Sand Switch to Traction Control

For a $100 (As Twr7cx said, maybe cheaper from the US), I'd say buy a revised ECU and test it out yourself. It's a simple install and very little to change with a Nanocom (Mainly SLS settings).

If you don't like it, you simply sell it on and reinstall your old SLABS ECU.

As I've said before it is a subjective matter and each to there own.

Dave

I didn't say towing over 2 tonn was easy or for anyone not utterly familiar with the area and conditions but it can be done. Stock lsd's are a bit of a waste of time versus lockers or etc or Ashcroft ATB sensing diffs.

Cheers

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Originally Posted by twr7cx

The later model SLABS ECU's are available from the USA for cheap. You can upgrade to the newer revised TC settings that way.

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I wouldn't dream of it. The more aggressive algorithms are by far a benefit overall. Just a couple of sand situations where you have to think again.

NIck

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Originally Posted by ozscott

I didn't say towing over 2 tonn was easy or for anyone not utterly familiar with the area and conditions but it can be done. Stock lsd's are a bit of a waste of time versus lockers or etc or Ashcroft ATB sensing diffs.

Cheers

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May be wrong , but I thought ashcroft atb was a torsen type LSD , I wouldn't bother with clutch type
unless someone came up with a hybrid type similar to those found in bitso****ees

Everyone seems to be forgetting in all of this..

Variability in brake choice

If you have cheap arse pads or crap rotors, your fluid is aged etc etc etc

Or if you have hard metal pads, slotted rotors, soft pads...

Way too many variables....

I've seen TC do nothing in a vehicle with high temp pads and stock rotors because they couldnt bite down...

DBA 4X4 Survival Series rotors with Bendix 4X4 pads (recommended by you Mike I think) with less than 3K on them, Castrol React DOT 4 Brake Fluid - flushed and filled when I fitted the rotors, Terrafirma +50mm stainless steel brake lines, calipers overhauled, all in good order.

I rest my case ........

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Originally Posted by iPom

DBA 4X4 Survival Series rotors with Bendix 4X4 pads (recommended by you Mike I think) with less than 3K on them, Castrol React DOT 4 Brake Fluid - flushed and filled when I fitted the rotors, Terrafirma +50mm stainless steel brake lines, calipers overhauled, all in good order.

I rest my case ........

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Nice combo... ;)

Cheers Tombie, works really well.

You are absolutely correct in the observation regarding the state of play with the vehicles braking system.

Certainly overlooked by many regarding how their Traction Control is performing.

When I get around to putting a CDL lever in I'll probably put a switch in for those dirt roads with lots of bumpy rocks. I've noticed the TC charging up and attempting to work often when I'm driving at a relatively high speed (2nd+ high or 3rd+ low). And since I'm driving slow enough to not lose control just seems unnecessary since I'm not going to stop. Hence I see it as unnecessary wear and tear on the system. Sometimes the light will be lit for 50 m or so (kudos to the responsiveness of the system).

I've not done much sand so I can't really comment on that.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 3doug6

When I get around to putting a CDL lever in I'll probably put a switch in for those dirt roads with lots of bumpy rocks. I've noticed the TC charging up and attempting to work often when I'm driving at a relatively high speed (2nd+ high or 3rd+ low). And since I'm driving slow enough to not lose control just seems unnecessary since I'm not going to stop. Hence I see it as unnecessary wear and tear on the system. Sometimes the light will be lit for 50 m or so (kudos to the responsiveness of the system).

I've not done much sand so I can't really comment on that.

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Absolutely would not do that. First if u lock CDL u will find it will reduce the incidence of the TC activating. Second, with no TC you will also have no ABS, which might be useful on that sort of surface.

cheers
Nick