Thread: Hub nut - why is it so tight?

Still 340Nm is still Grunt Grunt bloody tight. I have a torque multiplier but still the earth/car moved before it was at 420NM.

I have never seen a properly staked nut work loose. It is a mechanical stop. all I can think of is that someone tightened the nut onto grease, rust or dirt.
I do mine up with a Ryobi rattle gun which is 260Nm, rattle it for a while then use the torque multiplier.
Regards PhilipA

Originally Posted by PhilipA

Still 340Nm is still Grunt Grunt bloody tight. I have a torque multiplier but still the earth/car moved before it was at 420NM.

I use a 3/4" torque wrench (think it goes up to 700Nm maximum) and haven't had any issue with achieving the torque setting. I do have a second person sit in the car with their foot on the brake pedal and I leave the handbrake on but put the automatic transmission into Neutral as I don't want the loading going onto the park pin.

The

Originally Posted by twr7cx

If you read that thread in it's entirety, or particularly, the last few posts, you'll find that the discussion around the 340Nm and the LR Tech Bulletin posted up is for the Range Rover vehicles. There's a number of part overlaps between them and the D2. The Tech Bulletin specifically says:



Given that the Disco2 spec is 490 Nm, the new 340 Nm is clearly not an increase in torque value, but a decrease. The Range Rovers however had a lower torque spec, so this was increased up to 340 Nm. This doesn't apply to D2 vehicles.

Yes thanks i will read the book better...thanks that’s cleared up nicely, I must confess I was googling on the iPhone at the workshop re all this so missed the nuances of the RR increase. So the hub brochure at 490nm was right. Re the staked nut, may I submit that a poorly torqued nut will allow slap and chatter even if the nut staking prevents movement, also, we were tightening at ambient 16c and a hot hub axle bearing etc at max temp say with heavy braking on a long descent or slow sand work using lots of TC may cause heat expansion and lead to chatter. Not sure but very happy it’s at 490 and staked vs the rattle gun torque suggested by workshop.

The point of my reply was to help others without the $2,000 3/4 torque wrench get to 490nm or thereabouts easily. Even the best YouTube I saw ( an Aussie) just guesstimated. Yes I have read the post below re no loctite no staking and tight enough is good enough but must admit to a tad of perfectionism.

Finally, I sleep soundly knowing all the amigos are back where they belong and my new continental contact tyres 235x70 16 now have the best chance of gripping in an emergency stop. I went for these mainly road tyres because I’m sick and tired of the more knobbly a/t tyres scalloping and howling etc. we don’t do enough mud work to need them. Most of our off road is on sand.

i tried an 80kph full emergency stop and the brake Wabco slabs tyres road combination resulted in a very short stop with a slight pull to the left.

Finally, the hub change was indicated by the amigos and a rear wheel sensor fault and oil leaking onto the brakes. Further investigation revealed oil between the two parts of the hub meaning inner bearing, not an o ring. At 338k I reasoned that’s enough. Emboldened by this I may renew the other hubs over time but at the very least will have a good look for oil leaks, and check for play etc. at about $400 per corner I will do it over time.

cheers and thanks for the aulro collegiality as always.