Swaggie
SubscriberFollowing my last post re suspension bushes, the tightening of the pivot bolts on the front of the rear trailing arms has shut up the occasional clonk I had.
I inspected all my suspension arm bushes and the only crook ones appear to be the bushes between the trailing arms and the rear axle, and only the front ones on the rear axle.
The bushes are cracked about half way round at their front (away from the axle and towards the driveshaft) , both RH and LH. The cracks don't go right through but there appears to be other cracks on the other side of the bush ie (near the axle but towards the outside of the car.)
None of the bushes appear to have delaminated from the centre like RRC bushes do.
Anyway my quandary is this.
Do I buy just 2 bushes and replace them.?
Bearmach Aftermarket bushes from LR Direct are GBP 6 each and for 4 cost about $100 landed, while OEM LR bushes are GBP 28 each! so would cost about $250 landed.
Powerpro bushes are $320 for a full set including the pivot bushes or $208 fro the axle bushes only.
What is owners experience with aftermarket? Mario thinks Britpart are crap.
Is it worth just changing the 2 crook bushes, bearing in mind I am a bit skint having 2 car insurances, I camper insurance and rates all this month! ARGGGH.
Regards Philip A
OldBushie
I'm a big fan of the SuperPro bushes, the feel like genuine rubber in the car, are easy to install, and local (although cheaper to purchase from the UK)
Never heard bad things about them, especially wear rate wise.
BUT there are haters out there because they think they are the same a nolathane/poly bushes which they definitely are not.
My 2c
Wizard
I am in the same boat,when you say easy to install please explain.is there a press needed for genuine and not for the other etc,this will\could be a deciding factor as labour is free if you can do the job at home,but having to buy a press etc has to be considered.
He's ^^^^ onto it!
Super Pro bushes from QLD...
Comparing Polyurethane from one manufacturer is like saying all tyres are the same because they are round and black.
Super Pro are brilliant, long lasting (installed correctly) and dont harm flex or ride...
Press or vise needed for both styles, and cutting the old metalastic bushes can take some work...Originally Posted by lewy
Putting in Superpro can usually be done with the factory jack and some lateral thinking
Master
Check out supercheap auto for superpro bushes.
Dont know about other models but for 1995 ish defenders their price is very good.
could be a typo on their site
'95 Defender 130 Single Cab
HS2.8 TGV Powered
------------
98% of all Land Rovers built are still on the road.
The other 2% made it home.
Cost difference between Britpart and Genuine seals: £2.04. Knowing that your brakes won't fail at any moment: Priceless.
YarnMaster
SubscriberWhile removing the originals can be problematic without a press, the super pro bushes can be reasonably installed using a vise... with a couple of large washers, a 300mm length of 10mm threaded rod, a couple of nuts and plenty of lube on the bushes and the threaded rod... it's worth giving the inner edge of the bush housing on the radius arm a light file to round the sharp edge and ease the path of the new bush...
MY99 RR P38 HSE 4.6 (Thor) gone (to Tasmania)
2020 Subaru Impreza S ('SWMBO's Express' )
2023 Ineos Grenadier Trialmaster (diesel)
Swaggie
SubscriberI guess I will do what I used to do with RRC bushes.While removing the originals can be problematic without a press
Run a drill through the rubber many times and then cut through the outer with a hacksaw then split them with a cold chisel and drive them out.
I have found a cheap supplier via Google and will order tomorrow . UK prices are now more than Oz prices due to the exchange rate I guess.
Regards Philip A
Wizard
SubscriberI've found using a hole saw to cut through the rubber bush to let the centre metal sleeve fallout, you can then collapse the outer sleeve with a small cold chisel and the bush just falls out.
YarnMaster
SubscriberIf you have a steel cylinder (large water pipe/ ball joint extractor cup etc) of the correct diameter to put against the exit side of the bush housing to use as a receiving cup, and a large socket to push the bush out, then the threaded rod set up works OK if you have a long enough bar on the socket. An electric heat gun on the external housing also helps. That's one advantage of the 'plastic' housing on the P38 bushes in that once they start to move they slide reasonably easily.
MY99 RR P38 HSE 4.6 (Thor) gone (to Tasmania)
2020 Subaru Impreza S ('SWMBO's Express' )
2023 Ineos Grenadier Trialmaster (diesel)
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