Thread: Various TD5 logged fault codes..... need more help please.

Originally Posted by sierrafery

About the MAF i've has the same thoughts but realised it's not 100% like in RAVE, i'm not gonna open again pandora's box, see this if you have enough patience http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-...-egrd-td5.html

What can I say?! Wow what an interesting read. Took me the best part of 3 hours and I can honestly say that even though it made me really think, I'm still none the wiser!


Thanks for your input.

I had the "high values" on my MAF and the MaF signal would be outside what was expected and be shown as 0 on the nanocom.

Effect was the engine would drop out at about 3800RPM on full accelerator.
New MAF fixed it.
Mine is stock EU3auto.
Regards Philip A

Had u thought of adding some additional shield to the crank sensor wiring? Maybe wrapping some aluminum tape or similar around it??

AN UPDATE:

So I dedicated some time; pulling covers off, getting multimeter out and checking things over. All of engine wiring loom that I installed was perfectly supported and protected so unless there's an internal problem (of which I've learnt to expect anything ) all looked good. No oil leaks from inj loom.


What I did:

I measured the CKP sensor loom earth-shield of which it measured approximately 9 ohms - higher than what I would have expected considering they use a multi-strand 2mm wire plus a foil wrap as the earth sheild.


Resistance check between battery negative and body = 5 ohms; TOO HIGH so cleaned all body earths behind battery compartment (includes ECU earth), and main chassis earth on front of shocker tower and engine block. Re-check found 0.2 ohms to body earth and 0.5 on block. Good! Plug end of CKP loom shield measured 4 ohms which considering this is measuring from bat -'ve through ECU then to end of loom, that is fine, wme (with my experience).


Clear all fault codes, restart vehicle and put it through it's paces only for the TD5 to die underload, accelerating up and beyond 4000. The original fault codes (high MAF, high speed crank (logged and current), noisy crank signal and EGR) were present. I repeated the test three times - all same codes appear after clearing them.


NEXT: I replaced the Intermotor branded CKP with the old genuine unit that I saved. Road test to find it runs beautifully and it accelerated under load all the way up to 4500rpm with-out a hitch! Didn't want to take it any further. Repeat three times and NO FAULT CODES were stored!


So it appears with further driving all is well! The AllMakes supplied Intermotor CKP sensor is DODGY!!! ....and it throws up other fault codes (MAF) too.


Which brings me to another thread that I will start...LOW QUALITY ALLMAKES PARTS. I've had multiple examples of this - but this is for another day.


Roll on the VNT and associated upgrades! (gotta keep the Global economy going!haha)


Good day to you fellow AULRO's!


Regards, Jayden

Interesting, glad you're sorted now.

I've replaced my CKP with an Intermotor one, my factory original was logging a high speed crank error and bringing the MIL light on. I fitted the new Intermotor one with a spacer, even though the original didn't have one, and it's been working fine for over 10,000km.

I'm hoping yours was just a one off faulty one

Well done with that earth resistance measurements and cleaning... i've got some time ago a wheel speed sensor from Allmakes and it was "made in china" on the label, as about CKP sensors i was convinced that only genuine is the 100% safe way to go cos i've seen many cases when aftermarket ones made tricks.

Originally Posted by kelvo

Interesting, glad you're sorted now.

I've replaced my CKP with an Intermotor one, my factory original was logging a high speed crank error and bringing the MIL light on. I fitted the new Intermotor one with a spacer, even though the original didn't have one, and it's been working fine for over 10,000km.

I'm hoping yours was just a one off faulty one

Hi Kelvo,
I've done around 20,000km on this sensor and other than those faults coming up (particularly with the high revs) it ran okay...so I thought. Interestingly, as soon as I started and drove with the genuine CKP in, it certainly appeared to be more responsive, immediately from idle where-as the old sensor seemed to be more of a delay, as if the ECU had to think about it. Now maybe it is a figure of my imagination, of which case I don't mind......if I could be bothered I'd actually refit the Intermotor just to try it.


Next comparison will be on the fuel economy, as it was shocking at 16.5 ltrs/100 kms !!! Okay the full picture shows me pulling the loaded disco/camper in 40 degree heat with full A/C on sitting in 4th @ 90kph with roofrack etc....


My MAF is also due for replacement, even though no current codes, it shows max figures of 360 Kg/hr at full noise (load and revs). Disconnect it and I comes up with a 'low MAF' or something of that nature.


My 'failed' CKP will be kept for the contingency plan!


Cheers!

Originally Posted by sierrafery

Well done with that earth resistance measurements and cleaning... i've got some time ago a wheel speed sensor from Allmakes and it was "made in china" on the label, as about CKP sensors i was convinced that only genuine is the 100% safe way to go cos i've seen many cases when aftermarket ones made tricks.

Thanks Sierrafery, I enjoy getting to bottom of things, something that I believe you do too!


Allmakes wheel hub assemblies.....I replaced ALL my hub/bearing assemblies and I have two 'problems'. Not only have ALL the boots on the sensors cracked/split (in as little as three months), but after a $400 AUD speeding fine did I remove the sensors and count the reluctor segments. Old genuine had 60 'teeth' and the Allmakes had 55 'teeth'. That represents nearly a 10% difference IE: @ 110 kph speedometer reading, ground speed is actually 120 kph! I'm not happy and my next post will come out with full description of ALL my failed/leaking/perished products I've bought.


I'm waiting upon a certain UK on-line store to respond....


All the best.


Jayden