IT RUNS AGAIN!

Yes the followers and every thing was removed to do the machining of the head.
I was a bit misleading about it running so well . Everything is a bit relative when it has not been running for a week.
I took it to be going well. However when it was taken into heavy traffic in the city it did show it's faults.
Main reason for the gasket change was pressurization of the coolant it ran like a clock before that.
Thank you both for your help. I will have a go at it tomorrow.
I have not been locking the crank in the bell housing. It is auto. What do I lock is with? I don't see why I have to lock it if the cam is not moving . What am I not seeing?
Also I note that when the detent in the cam is in line with the pin hole on top that the cam is not anywhere near the highest point of the cam lobe.Is this wrong?
No, no silicone in the halfs.

Don't worry about cam lobe position as your probably looking at the lobe for the injector anyway. You can not get the cam timing correct without knowing if no1 piston is at Tdc , again , this is done by placing a locking pin or drill bit so that it lines up with the hole in the ring gear /flywheel ( I only do this once then mark with a paint pen on the harmonic balancer and a corresponding spot on the timing cover), then follow my above post, sorry to contradict you again pippin but cam timing is critical not just on td5s but all 4 strokes

Yes I get it about locking the cam with a drill bit . but why lock the bell housing when the crank in not moving and with the cam locked.Also with the slow throttle response I have and running smelly (rich) that is going on , which direction do I turn the cam sprocket to regain my crisp acceleration?

I said in my previous post to lock the crank with drill bit, you need to know where the crank is in relation to the cam , this needs to be correct , but if you just want to blindly advance the cam timing then turn the sprocket anti clockwise

Discorevy I assume that after I have sent a previous post on the proper process for setting the Cam timing those instructions were followed reasonably closely hence my comment that it is not that critical. This post is getting a bit competitive, we are all trying to give the best advice but it is important that it is followed carefully and posts are not taken out of context.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by worane

Yes I get it about locking the cam with a drill bit . but why lock the bell housing when the crank in not moving and with the cam locked.Also with the slow throttle response I have and running smelly (rich) that is going on , which direction do I turn the cam sprocket to regain my crisp acceleration?

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Appreciate what your saying Pippin but you can see that hasn't been understood , so I am trying to give the best advice based on 30 years as a qualified mechanic , as I wouldn't like to see worane or anyone else bending valves , hence my reply to your statement of cam timing not being that critical . I don't view that as competitive..

I agree.

It's maybe not critical IF you are timing it against TDC .

But if you are not at TDC then the cam timing can be anywhere.

From his comments the OP doesn't seem to accept that he needs to find TDC . Maybe I misunderstand also but that is how I read his responses.

Maybe the OP can set us straight on how he is finding TDC if he is not using the method designed by Land Rover. IE drill or special tool from LR in flywheel.
Regards Philip A

It all comes down to a really important point that work done on a TD5 and particularly the head should not be commenced until there is a good understanding of the process to be followed from Rave or a Workshop Manual and used as a guide through the process. Discorevy I apologise for getting a bit uptight but it is born out of frustration that the basic rules of this procedure are not being followed by many when attempting work on the head. If they had been the Cam timing would have been straightforward because the crank would have been set at TDC before the head was removed and many other potential problems avoided.

Gentlemen,
I really do appreciate the trouble you are going to on my behalf.
I have locked the cam shaft with a drill bit and moved the crank to get to that position in a clockwise direction.
What my question was, and I have not so far got an understanding of, is Why do I have to lock the crankshaft as well as I have the drill bit peg in the camshaft so TDC should not be moving.
If I do have to lock the crank shaft through the bell housing, what size drill is best to use and does it drop into a detent? Or does it have to be screwed into place.
sorry to be so dense.
Regards Nick.

I have just reread Discoverevvy"s previous posts and realize I missed the meaning of the bell housing pin he mentioned there.
This revelation makes my last post somewhat redundant,
However I still would like to know what sort of peg I need to use.
.