Thread: three amigos

Ta Da!
I knew I'd saved them before on site somewhere

Have a look in FILES/Tutorials.
directly under the AULRO banner, right hand end.

As stated in TGO, wheel sensor faults are easy to locate/determine.
just do option B if its not a wheels sensor.
Dont spend a million dollars on repair kits or new parts.

Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift

Ta Da!
I knew I'd saved them before on site somewhere

Have a look in FILES/Tutorials.
directly under the AULRO banner, right hand end.

Good work!

Now this has caught my attention. I say that because it could be a classic case of horse and gate....

When I Nancom-ed my D2, the fault pointed to the shuttle valve. So I replaced it. Curiously though, after I'd removed the old one, I noticed that the wiring was slightly 'different' to the replacement. And now, it all makes sense.....

The original shuttle valve had been modified to Option B. As I didn't know this back then, I just replaced the old with the new, connecting it up as it should be. This fixed the fault. Until now....

So...something leads me to believe that the fault isn't with the new shuttle valve, and actually points to something else. What's the best way to rule out the sensors and, if they're OK, where else should I look...?!

Cheers, mate.

Kev F

all you need to know about fixing our three friends is in The Good Oil,,
for wheel sensors, just jack up one wheel at a time(only has to be just off the ground) start the car, put in gear, see if speedo moves.
If it does, that sensor is working.
no fancy gizmos required!

and its usually not the sensor, its the join between the two sensor cables that stuffs up.
'tis why they only sell one long cable now.

Originally Posted by series3kev

Yeah, I reckon I'll just go straight for the sensors.

I checked that wire that comes from the ABS block. Disconnected it and sprayed contact cleaner in there on several occasions...no change.

Don't want to labour the point ( yet here i am) - push the wire / connector into the connector block from the back of the block. Mine was loose in the connector block so didn't make connect all the time = 3 amigoes...

Originally Posted by bsperka

Don't want to labour the point ( yet here i am) - push the wire / connector into the connector block from the back of the block. Mine was loose in the connector block so didn't make connect all the time = 3 amigoes...

Did that. On all the wires. Still there. As I said, it's very intermittent. Sometimes right on start-up, other times not until say 200km/s or more....

I'll lift the four corners independently, at the weekend. Worth checking the sensors, too. After that, I just dunno....!

Originally Posted by series3kev

Good work!

Now this has caught my attention. I say that because it could be a classic case of horse and gate....

When I Nancom-ed my D2, the fault pointed to the shuttle valve. So I replaced it. Curiously though, after I'd removed the old one, I noticed that the wiring was slightly 'different' to the replacement. And now, it all makes sense.....

The original shuttle valve had been modified to Option B. As I didn't know this back then, I just replaced the old with the new, connecting it up as it should be. This fixed the fault. Until now....

So...something leads me to believe that the fault isn't with the new shuttle valve, and actually points to something else. What's the best way to rule out the sensors and, if they're OK, where else should I look...?!

Cheers, mate.

Kev F

Faults which reset are shuttle valve related.
Wheel sensor faults will only reset 3 times before remaining on.

Its all in the good oil........

......... any faults shown on a Nanocom or any other diagnostic tool will only direct you to the related component.

IE it may or may not be the shuttle valve but it is definitely associated with that component/circuit.

Which means you still have to fault find the related circuit/s. which is what Bsperka is pointing out also.

The good oil has multiple posts on this......
did I mention the "Good Oil"

Originally Posted by strangy

Which means you still have to fault find the related circuit/s. which is what Bsperka is pointing out also.

The good oil has multiple posts on this......
did I mention the "Good Oil"

Thanks for making it clearer, Strangy. I didn't actually realise that the fault pointed to a particular area, or that the lights remained on with the sensor fault after 3 resets. I should read The Good Oil. And yes, you did mention The Good Oil...!