Cross link valve, Air bags

On a more helpful note Joel, a cross-linking system that measured pressure in each bag would possibly limit the possability of the vehicle to fall over, something that would transfer ur air from one side to another, but switched off automagically and left say 20Psi in the low side bag, that way there would be still 'some' height retained in the low side.
This is getting overly techincal tho, and realistically, I dont believe the SLS system is ever going to be as good offroad as a normal coil spring.

Youve probly noticed it yourself, as soon as U put one wheel up on a bank or similar, the SLS tries to level the car up, and deflates the opposite side, which, is totally the opposite to what is needed to keep the wheels on the ground in X-Axle situations.

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Originally Posted by Phat-Customs

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...015/03/699.jpg

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a good idea with only couple of minor drawbacks

1. you would have to have one on hand and install it on the track and
2. you would have to have one on hand and install it on the track.

I know thats technically the same problem repeated but its such a significant one that I thought it was worth mentioning twice.

There is always something more you can do in any situation, the real challenge is working out in time if what you can do will provide enough help and then executing your decision effectively.


I reckon theres 3 things that could have been done to help prevent the cross axle or to get through it. that cost nothing

Packing rocks.
Digging a hole.
Getting a tow.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Phat-Customs

On a more helpful note Joel, a cross-linking system that measured pressure in each bag would possibly limit the possability of the vehicle to fall over, something that would transfer ur air from one side to another, but switched off automagically and left say 20Psi in the low side bag, that way there would be still 'some' height retained in the low side.
This is getting overly techincal tho, and realistically, I dont believe the SLS system is ever going to be as good offroad as a normal coil spring.

Youve probly noticed it yourself, as soon as U put one wheel up on a bank or similar, the SLS tries to level the car up, and deflates the opposite side, which, is totally the opposite to what is needed to keep the wheels on the ground in X-Axle situations.

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Maintaining the same pressure in each side? You mean the same as if I run a pipe from one side to the other and then both sides would habe the same pressure?

Then I could just use a pressure regulator that turns off under 20psi.

I think this is all looking too far into it. I just want to use it allow the pressure from the bag that is compressed to flow to the bag that is extended and even up the weight on each of the rear wheels in the occasional circumstance that I'm really crossed up, the front axle is level and it will be the remaining force leveling the vehicle and traction control isn't quit cutting it and I just need a little more traction.

I can do a couple of "T" pieces, a valve, a little wire and a switch for less than $40. Diff locks would likely cost me 20 times this.

Or I could design my own system with Audrino. The thought has been there for a while now. I could build a buffer into the program so rather than going up and down near immedialty like it does now. I could build a buffer that considered the averange of ride height samples taken at 10hz for the past 5 minutes and then adjust accordingly. So rather then when I stop at a set of traffic lights with my foot on the brake and it lets air out because the back is slightly raised and then re-inflates again once I take off because the back drops as I accelerate it would consider the raised time while stopped and the dropped time while accelerating, average it and not adjust at all.

Then as I am saving the compressor working so much when just normal driving, I could set it to drop it to the stops when I turn the ignition off and come up to the last recorded height from when I started.

So many ideas. Maybe even self levelling with accelorometer and pressure monitors on each bag.

Happy Days

Heres a story from real life,,
When wagners bought their first ****load of Mack Agi's (Agitator, cement truck you :D) they had a bad habit of falling over when fully laden,, Mack re-designed their cross axle air system to stop this,, but wagners were to cheap to install the larger size airlines required to shift enough air that quick.
In the end some really smart boffin (not a wagner employee) found it was more to do with driving on the left side of the road and the rotation of the bowl.:angel:

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Originally Posted by Phat-Customs

Packing rocks.
Digging a hole.
Getting a tow.

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theres three good answers none of which were the ones I as thinking of.


one of my answers requires some prep work the other two dont even require you to leave the drivers seat

hit it flat strap,don't even think about giving the suspension time to think about lifting wheels it will only get it wrong:problem solved:twisted:

Three things that 4wd mags say you need in that situation:
1. Massive mud tyres
2. Momentum
3. A heavy right foot and redneck disregard for the environment.

Leave the car standard, learn to drive it and carry a tirfor for when you stuff up. :)

here's 4 of the things I try to teach guys who actually want to learn to drive that help deal with cross axling.

Change the vehicles load out, This can be as simple as getting your passangers to bunch up on one side of the car or moving the full jerry can from the left side to the right on he roof rack.

This changes the COG of the vehicle and will give it a tendancy to lean to one side, if you're vehicle does this naturally (series landrovers with stock fuel and no additional load tend to lean right) then you adapt your driving style to favor that side when you approach a cross up.


Walk The steering. Due to the castor and king pin inclination angle, if the gound under the vehicle is not level turning the front wheels changes the effective wheel base and tries to engage a different part of the wheel on the ground, this can be enough to tilt the vehicle BUT you also pick up an extra benifit if the contact point of the front wheel thats in contact is not at the "bottom" of the wheel turning the steering will push the vehicle front to the left and right, time it right and you can use this to gain enough dynamic weight transfer to pick up the traction you need.

Hit the brakes. Time it just right and you'll pick up enough dynamic shift of COG from the weight transfer that hitting the brakes brings. IF your COG passes, even temporarily, across the line between the the two supporting wheels then the vehicle will tip pushing the nose down or at least proving more traction to the unloaded front wheel. IF you're still under power you'll acheive enough applied drive to get the wheels past the points that were causing you to cross axle.

Rock the vehicle. This is the same as the hitting the brakes trick but in reverse, your trying to build enough inertia in the vehicel to load up the unladen side on the back axle and use that to push the vehicle forwards far enough that when the bounce back from the unloaded side occurs the COG has moved past the balance line.

And finally one that only applies if you have something with drum brakes

Ride the brakes... In a series or most perenties you have a lead/trail shoe setup, if you ride the brakes the faster spinning wheel has more brake action applied to it from the brake shoe that is leading. if you know you're bout to loose your 3 points of contact riding the brakes in under power can give you enough torque reaction through the diff to drive the wheel thats still got grip. This works particulalry well if you have a torque mulitplying diff like a true track.