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UPDATE: When I went to China recently for work I must have killed a China-man without knowing.
I got my head checked by a engine builder, the verdict is both my block and head are.... I can't use the word of choice on this forum.
I'm shattered. EURO 3 16P motors are not easy to find and when you do they are far from cheap.
I guess i'm going down the path of a second hand engine. Disco 2 up to about $13,000 so far. What is it worth? Another $? on a engine. Caught between a rock and a hard place.
Sorry to hear your unlucky news! We were in a similar situation when our d2 needed a new transmission - do we spend $5k on a car thats only worth $10k?
As we're planning another big lap in a couple of years we've kept the car for now as it's too good to let go!
I'd be weighing up all your options including wrecking yours and buying a lower km one which are going for less than $15k for under 200k km.
Good luck!
Update on were i'm at. Pricing.
Rebuild kit including 0.020 oversize pistons $2000
Block re-bore and hone $250
Head 2nd hand replacement with new seals and valves or repair original head still pending approx $1200
Engine rebuild myself estimate $3500
Option 2
2nd hand motor between 160K kms - 240K kms. $2000 - $3000
I've gone for the rebuild option.
Hi jazzman , not sure if rebuild kit comes with new hoses ,thermostat , water pump fan bearing etc... but check turbo , especially if it has been dusted. Hoses , how is the turbo air inlet hose? why was the original motor dusted?,are the big ends and mains standard or do you need a crank grind and oversize bearings .
These are questions to ask yourself as it may up your budget a bit, also worth checking auto trans oil pump bolts and replace convertor seal while the motor is out . clean , clean and pay special att to ring gaps , piston oil squirters....... everything really. good luck , keep us posted as to how you get on
cheers
Just out of interest who makes the eu3 oversize pistons?
Thanks for your help Discorevy,Quote:
Originally Posted by discorevy
The rebuild kit I was referring to was from the engine builder, i do need to check what it consists of, but he told me it had everything. I wouldn't have thought it has a thermostat and hoses. I expect it has seals, bearing, pistons and timing gears and chains.
I'll check the turbo and intake hose. The bearings have all still got the white metal on them which is a good sign, as far as I know. For this reason i'm assuming the crank is still round and OK. Also the squirters where difficult to remove I stripped the 4mm hex bolt on some of them, had to hammer a T27 torque bit into the last one to get it out, lucky it worked.
As far as I know Turner Engineering sell 0.020 Kolben Schmidt brand over size pistons. I read somewhere on there website, these pistons are for the late model TD5 and they don't have the early model ones but they can be used in early model TD5's if you do something else as well.
TD5 engine parts TD5 cylinder heads, pistons, bearings
I'm not entirely sure who makes the ones in the kits the engine builder has quoted me, obviously i'll find out before purchasing anything.
Took the auto and TC out today. The front drive shaft has a buggered DC joint. AWESOME! I'm trying hard to be the optimist, if all this stuff fell apart half way up the Old Telegraph Track I would have been in trouble.
Just something else that needs to be fixed at more expense.
Just an update for anyone who is interested.
I got all the rebuild bits for the bottom end yesterday. The machinist is going to bore the block, after that i'll be spending a lot of time in the shed following RAVE's instructions reassembling my motor.
The head bits have been ordered and should be here next week. I've decided the engine builder / machinist can rework the head for me. It will cost more, but i just don't want to stuff it up.
So far up to $3750.
I've got my motor mostly together. Bottom end all done, head and timing cover on.
After all this i realized i had forgotten to put Loctie on the 3 bolts holding the timing chain guides in place. They are done up to the correct torque but have no lock tight. The timing sprocket does have Loctite.
My question here is, is it possible to remove the timing cover without removing the head? This way I can correct my mistake.
You are looking at $4700
Looking good , if it was mine and I was 100% sure they were torqued I would leave it ( no doubt others will disagree) but for your peace of mind the answer is yes, when you replace timing cover put a smidgen of sealant on corners of timing cover where head gasket meets block
So there is enough movement in the stud on top of the timing cover that goes through the head, to maneuver it around the guiding dowels for the cover and around the crank.Quote:
Originally Posted by discorevy