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Thread: Auto hunting at low revs - 6 weeks in the shop with no solution

  1. #1
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    Cool Auto hunting at low revs - 6 weeks in the shop with no solution

    Hi All

    Just thought I would throw this one out there in case others have had a similar experience.

    Have a 2001 td5 auto with 250K on the clock.

    This vehicle drives on the freeway with no problems.

    While plodding around town the gearbox hunts up and down mainly between second and third.

    Have been getting around by selecting each gear manually and keeping the revs up between changes.

    If you cruise around between 1500 - 2200 rpm (even in manual) the auto goes mad hunting.

    There are no Gearbox or Engine errors in the system

    I had the auto serviced by a specialist who claims there were no filings in the oil.

    It then went to a Landy repairer.

    While in the shop they changed:

    The alternator, The MAF, turbo vacuum assembly, injection loom, accelerator potentiometer, engine speed sensor and ECU.

    They in turn took it to an Auto specialist who watched the computer while driving and could see the auto ecu changing the gears up and down. He claimed the Auto ecu speed sensor and the engine speed sensor were giving reasonable readings. He could not guarantee an Auto rebuild would solve the issue.

    Got the car back with no solution.

    Took to another Auto specialist who read no errors on the auto ecu and took it for a drive around the block and suggested a $5K removal, rebuild and refit.

    Two months later the issue feels worse. Aggressive hunting in the gears.

    At some times under load the engine feels like it is surging, but other times you can clearly feel the box changing up and down erratically

    Is there any sense in measuring the oil pressures in the box to help confirm the auto is at fault?

    If these issues ring a bell feel free to respond.

    Regards

    Peter A
    D2 - 2001 - Auto - Lovin it

  2. #2
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    Hi, did they reset the addaptive values in the transmission ECU?... anyway at how much you've spent on it IMO you should try with a known good EAT(transmission) ECU to rule this out too(unless that's the one they replaced not the engine ECU), it's plug and play
    Discovery Td5 (2000), manual, tuned

  3. #3
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    I presume you've checked for oil in the engine ecu harness. And check the condition of the engine wiring harness and harness and connector to the trans.

    At 250k the trans may be be close to its end of life remember too.
    Cheers

    Simon
    2003 D2a TD5, ACE, SLS, Vienna Green.

  4. #4
    Roverlord off road spares is offline AT REST
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    Gee I hope they didn't charge you for all the replacement bits they fitted in their experiment to find a solution. Seems throwing parts at it didn't solve the problem and I hope you didn't pay for that.


  5. #5
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    Thanks All

    Both the Engine ECU (to fix a starting issue) and the Automatic ECU were changed out in an attempt to solve this one.

    Not sure if the adaptive settings were reset. Will look into that

    The repairer was reasonable price wise. Most of the parts were working and swopped out of other disco's.

    The injector loom was changed out.

    The engine loom is a target. But would like to diagnose a problem before I import one for $400+ (The aussie dollar is moving) and change out the old one.

    I understand that at 250K the Auto is due. Just wanted a better diagnosis before a rebuild.

    Regards

    Peter A
    D2 - 2001 - Auto - Lovin it

  6. #6
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    Long shot - XYZ switch? My mechanic reckons my now hopefully disappeared somewhat similar problem was dirty contacts (yes - a/c drain switch already relocated) and could have this not all that well known problem if it re-appears. Worth a look/clean?
    D4 MY16 TDV6 - Cambo towing magic, Traxide Batteries, X Lifter, GAP ID Tool, Snorkel, Mitch Hitch, Clearview Mirrors, F&R Dashcams, CB
    RRC MY95 LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants
    SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies

  7. #7
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    Wink

    The XYZ switch was replaced last year by a general mech. Aircon drain has been rerouted for a few years. Didn't coincide with the start of the issue but will check wiring. thanks
    D2 - 2001 - Auto - Lovin it

  8. #8
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    Do you have cruise control? and if yes is it working?...this question is to rule out the brake switch's NC contact which has effect only on cruise control and to reduce fueling at lower revs while braking, if you dont have CC the only sign of brake switch NC contact failure would be reduced power at lower speeds, happened to me, it has killed my nervs untill i've found it, i thought it's a transmission issue first time, mine being a manual had different symptoms but an auto might behave differently in this case, worth a check(of course only if the CC is present and not working cos if it does forget about that), see this(post #7): Disco 2 "jerks" in lower gears(transmission shunt?) - Land Rover Zone ... to override other discussions i kept the solid flywheel only around a month cos it was stressfull due to vibrations
    Discovery Td5 (2000), manual, tuned

  9. #9
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    Hi Sierra,

    Im really interested in this! Can you please explain what I have to do to check if my vehicle has the same fault as your describing.Sounds heaps similar to what Ive had going on for a long time

    cheers
    Bronson

  10. #10
    CaptainJack Guest
    Let me say right off the bat that im not posting this as a solution or an opinion of what your issue is, this is more about my own D2 and issues i have encountered and solved myself.

    I bought a a 2000 V8 D2 with 200ks on the clock about 4 weeks ago.

    Although it hand a excellent service record, and despite my detailed inspections and test before purchase in the following weeks i have encounted a number of issues inlcuding overheating, which i have solved - a constant ticking noise from the engine on idle, which i have solved and an auto hunting issue - between second and third.

    The previous owner said his mechanic told him not to service the auto trans and they are better left alone. (BS i say)

    I live about 60ks out of brisbane, but work in the city, and have been driving the disco into work daily. From where i live i travel at highway speed until almost in the city, and have no issue with the auto on the highway. But when i exit the highway and drive through the city (stop start) i have had an issue with the auto box hunting between second and thrid. Really annoying, and i overcome it by swithing to sport mode and manually changing gears.

    Let me also say i enjoy my garage time, and the disco will never visit a mechanic - i do all the work mysellf.

    I inspected all the looms and really found not issue such as oil penetration.

    I first did a change of the trans oil -dropped the exisiting, took off the sump, new filter, added new trans oil, but the hunting issue was still there.

    Now on reading the rave and some other google material, doing a change only really renewes about 1/3 to 1/2 the trans fluid.

    So, this weekend i again dropped the trans fluid, refiilled, went for another drive for about 30 mins, then let it cool. Dropped the trans again, still came out a bit dark, and added new fluid. Repeated did another driver for about 20 mins, then let it rest overnight.

    This morning dropped the trans fuild again, added new as per the instructions in rave, bit this time instead of just running the engine and selecting each gear the checking fludi levels, i held it in each gear for another 15 seconds. Then i checked level and could add another 500ml.

    After 5 full changes, the trans fluid is now clear as new. (yep that cost a few $ at supercheap)

    So extensive test drive after and guess what? Not more hunting between 2nd and 3rd.

    Now i dont want to profess this is a cure, but it seems the D2 auto boxes respond well to a realy good flush.

    You mentioned that you had the auto serviced by a professional, but did they do a full systemn flush? I know transmission experts have some sort of pump whereby they can flush out all the old trans fluid, but are you sure that was what was done?

    Ill let you know how i go this week after a few trips into the city but so far, the gear changes are really smooth, and no more hunting between gears.

    BTW i used castrol DEX III transmission fluid, which is what i belived LR use in the workshop. could be wrong though

    Hope you find the problem - Cheers.

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