Thread: D2 Front Drive Shaft rebuild

So looking at those pics of failed unis, has this given you guys some incentive to re-route the A/C drain outlet away by extending the drain tube so it doesn't do this in future.
Yes greaseable unis will help, but the centre ball is not greasable, after it is fitted , it is tucked up inside the joint and water can still get to it.

it doesn't take much effort to do the hose, that's after you finally find its out let in the trans tunnel side.
many have looked and couldn't see it, but its there. Do the same on the passenger side, for the XYZ inhibitor switch also
Cheers,
Mario

Gee you were pretty lucky Joel, that could have exploded on you .
Good to see you found it before.
Cheers,
Mario

Update.

I got all the bits painted:







New bearings ready to go in:





The centre bearing pressed in easy enough. The red doover in the middle just holds the needle bearings in place.



The new spring goes in the middle of the pin then I put plenty of grease around:



From the YouTube clip, I got that this part was a bit fiddly because if the pin comes out on the centre bearing, you could loose the needle bearings as nothing else holds them in place. I fixed this problem by holding the unit together with a cable tie. Once the bearing caps are in each end of the outer sleeve of the cardan the centre can't move away so you can cut the cable tie and install the bearing caps in the shaft and flange:



A mistake I made when installing the Uni bearing in the single Uni end of the shaft was I pressed the bearing caps in until I thought they were just past the circlip groove. Apparently I went the slightest too far and the joint was stiff so I had to take it out and do it again. I did it differently the second time around:

I only pressed the bearing caps in until I could just see the start of the groove:



Then I installed the circlip but it obviously wouldn't seat:



Then I took a socket and a hammer and tapped it in every so gently. Just until the circlip seated:





And the finished product:











Happy Days

I'm about to do this also. Thanks for the thread. I'm probably not going to paint mine and make it look as pretty as yours though.

Originally Posted by Jazzman

I'm about to do this also. Thanks for the thread. I'm probably not going to paint mine and make it look as pretty as yours though.

Don't get too excited about my paint job, mate. I did give it a pretty good clean up with both degreaser and then a scrub with some solid detergent but that's all the prep it got. As I'd recommend anyone give all the bits a good clean to avoid getting any dirt or grit in the bearings during reassembly, the only other thing is really waiting for the paint to dry. I only used some cheap black gloss enamel that I got from either Repco or SCA while on special. As I had to wait for the bearings, I had time for the paint to dry. It hardly took a minute or 2 to throw the can of spray paint around.

Happy Days

I'm not sure if the GMB UJs come in different grades, but the failed one in my shaft was GMB,
the others were OE GKN units. The standard duty GKN UJs I fitted are quite obviously heavier than the GMB with larger bearing contract area. I'm sure you'll be keeping a closer eye on it from now on anyway! I know I am

Strangely enough there was a post on one of the LR facey pages about rebuilding ur shaft.

I then found this;

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item...d=251921580518

There is also a good write up here;

http://www.discovery2.co.uk/propshafts.html

But it looks like ur all over that shaft Joel!

Loves the shaft! Lol

Nice work mate, I'll be doing mine when I can!

I did the same thing but added a small grease nipple which JUST fits if you grind it down enough and screw it in all the way. You have to use a needle to grease it but it is better than it not getting any at all. The UJ's I used were a spicer heavy duty unit they reccomended for the shaft.

Cheers,
Brian.