D2 TD5 Auto CDL Electric Actuator

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3rd June 2015, 11:14 AM
onebob

Quote:

Originally Posted by tassiepomme

Ok, so I'm keen to get some sort of CDL actuator happening on the D2. Having spent a good while researching this topic, I've decided that I'm not going to look at fitting an aftermarket cable-operated actuator, mainly due to the cost involved. As an electrical engineer I'm somewhat biased towards an electrical solution :)
I initially tried to use a door central locking actuator, but it doesn't have quite enough 'muscle' to disengage the CDL once engaged.
So, I've upped the ante and bought one of these electric actuators:

ECO-WORTHY 2" (50mm) Stroke Linear Actuator 1500N 12V 5.7mm/s |Eco-worthy

It generates 1.5kN so is more than capable of operating the CDL, but I now need to come up with a cunning plan to install...

If anyone out there has been down a similar path and can offer some advice, it would be very much appreciated!

this is mine - not electric but air, however it might help you with mounting options...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...015/06/942.jpg
3rd June 2015, 11:24 AM
Tombie
Quote:

Originally Posted by DanDisco2

I just went with a setup that piggy backs off the high low linkage so I can get Cdl engaged but only in low range I figured my disco was pretty capable if I need Cdl locked I'll probably be in low range anyway

We demonstrated the short comings of this to a couple of 4wdrivers going back about 10 years ago...
- Sand driving is one area where High & CDL are very advantageous
- Reversing heavy loads 'on road' Low & NO CDL is excellent
- Tight turns in Low are easier if you can turn off your CDL
- Fast dirt is best travelled with CDL locked..
3rd June 2015, 03:27 PM
tassiepomme

Quote:

Originally Posted by onebob

this is mine - not electric but air, however it might help you with mounting options...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...015/06/942.jpg

That is one trick looking diy job :-)
I like the idea of the more solid bracket going 'over' the CDL spigot, rather than just to one side (like the aftermarket CDL kits seem to do).
3rd June 2015, 07:14 PM
onebob

Quote:

Originally Posted by tassiepomme

That is one trick looking diy job :-)
I like the idea of the more solid bracket going 'over' the CDL spigot, rather than just to one side (like the aftermarket CDL kits seem to do).

YES! It is solid but it's not my work! - I bought it years ago from Will Campbell at Campbell Crawlers in Utah. It has never let me down...

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=px4MjdeUmiY"]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=px4MjdeUmiY[/ame]
3rd June 2015, 07:23 PM
DanDisco2
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tombie

We demonstrated the short comings of this to a couple of 4wdrivers going back about 10 years ago...

Sand driving is one area where High & CDL are very advantageous
Reversing heavy loads 'on road' Low & NO CDL is excellent
Tight turns in Low are easier if you can turn off your CDL
Fast dirt is best travelled with CDL locked..
Yeah I understand that tombie I didn't say my setup was awesome I just said it was cheap, quick and clean inside the cab. I understand that there are times where high range plus 4x4 is "advantageous" and vice versa I just didn't mention it in my post sorry for leading anyone up the garden path.

Although in most of my situations unless I fear I'm going to get stuck I won't bother locking it in. I know my setup is a bit limiting but I never really used low gear on road at all and never got bogged on fast dirt either. I mainly use it for wheel cross over, extremely steep hill climbs etc. not much sand in my neck of the woods but in saying that traversing the occasional hill in low gear will still be 'reasonable' even if it's not the 'best' option. I guess we all use low gear a bit differently too. It works well for me but in saying that the mechanism was given to me. One day I will disconnect it from the other linkage and run and push pull
3rd June 2015, 08:13 PM
Outback 1

Quote:

Originally Posted by tassiepomme

Hmm - I hadn't thought of that. The cost of push-pull 'control' cables is a bit high tho. Few cheapies on ebay but not sure if they'd be up to the job though. My local marine store stocks a fair range, but they start at about 50 bucks for a short one and go up from there.

you could use a second hand hi lo cable from a d2
3rd June 2015, 09:12 PM
Jazzman

Why not use 2 actuators? One for the CDL and the other for High, Neutral and Low Range?

To be honest I don't understand why you couldn't have the CD locked in high range? What is the difference using an electric actuator or lever?

The actuator you posted earlier will NOT be fit for the job unless it is mounted in the cabin and a cable is used. Yes 1500N is plenty enough force more or less 150kg capacity.

I would recommend an actuator with a minimum IP rating of IP66 or IPx6. The x means it has not been tested for dust but has been for water, general rule being if it is protected against water, dust is normally not an issue. (The grain industry is an exception to this rule for example)

So if you are using an electric actuator you need to ask yourself first:
What Load is required Nm?
How is it going to be controlled?
Do I need it to turn itself off at end of stroke? YES normally so it needs limit switches.
What environment is it used in - IP rating?
What is the required self locking ability / load holding ability?
What is the minimum install dimension?
What is the max install dimension?
What is the required stroke length?

For example you need something like:
Linear Actuator LA25

These start at something like $400 AUD.
4th June 2015, 08:43 AM
Tombie

Quote:

Originally Posted by DanDisco2

Yeah I understand that tombie I didn't say my setup was awesome I just said it was cheap, quick and clean inside the cab. I understand that there are times where high range plus 4x4 is "advantageous" and vice versa I just didn't mention it in my post sorry for leading anyone up the garden path.

Although in most of my situations unless I fear I'm going to get stuck I won't bother locking it in. I know my setup is a bit limiting but I never really used low gear on road at all and never got bogged on fast dirt either. I mainly use it for wheel cross over, extremely steep hill climbs etc. not much sand in my neck of the woods but in saying that traversing the occasional hill in low gear will still be 'reasonable' even if it's not the 'best' option. I guess we all use low gear a bit differently too. It works well for me but in saying that the mechanism was given to me. One day I will disconnect it from the other linkage and run and push pull

All good Dan, and free is always a nice price..

Fast/loose dirt is where locking the CDL shines in High range... Gives much greater stability to the vehicle at speed on curves and surfaces where the vehicle can twitch otherwise. And very handy on beaches!

Another consideration (for all to keep in mind) is the Centre Diff is not the strongest of structures, locked is far better than having it spin up front to rear and tear itself apart...
6th June 2015, 05:30 PM
onebob

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jazzman

Why not use 2 actuators? One for the CDL and the other for High, Neutral and Low Range?

To be honest I don't understand why you couldn't have the CD locked in high range? What is the difference using an electric actuator or lever?

The actuator you posted earlier will NOT be fit for the job unless it is mounted in the cabin and a cable is used. Yes 1500N is plenty enough force more or less 150kg capacity.

I would recommend an actuator with a minimum IP rating of IP66 or IPx6. The x means it has not been tested for dust but has been for water, general rule being if it is protected against water, dust is normally not an issue. (The grain industry is an exception to this rule for example)

So if you are using an electric actuator you need to ask yourself first:
What Load is required Nm?
How is it going to be controlled?
Do I need it to turn itself off at end of stroke? YES normally so it needs limit switches.
What environment is it used in - IP rating?
What is the required self locking ability / load holding ability?
What is the minimum install dimension?
What is the max install dimension?
What is the required stroke length?

For example you need something like:
Linear Actuator LA25

These start at something like $400 AUD.

from $400 "ouch" :eek2:..... an air ram is looking good i reckon:D

onebob
6th June 2015, 08:54 PM
Jazzman

Quote:

Originally Posted by onebob

from $400 "ouch" :eek2:..... an air ram is looking good i reckon:D

onebob

Air ram is good if you have everything else to activate it. I worked out if the stroke length is 50mm the LA14 would also work well with a 5mm shorter install dimension.

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