Thread: D2 engine misfires - the best fix

Hi Guys

Everyone is on the right track, but I fix mine every couple of years without buying anything. All the dealers want to sell you parts and time, and they tell you oil has got into the harnesses and the ECU - well that's BS - here is my fix.

There are two parts to this. The first part is the "get you home" part. Very simple. Just pull off the road, put it in neutral, or park if it is auto. Rev the engine to 3000 rpm, and hold the throttle there while you turn off the ignition key, right round to steering lock. When the engine has stopped completely, restart it, and with any luck it will be running smoothly and will get you home. If this does not work, try once more, and if that does not work you need to get the car home somehow so you can fix it. How does this work I hear you ask. Well, it is caused by a bad connection at the injector plug. When you rev the engine and turn it off, for a moment the alternator is unregulated, and is producing about 18 volts. This is just enough to burn through the oily deposits on the plug pins and give a good but temporary contact.

Part two - the long term fix. Very simple. Remove the rocker cover, and each in turn, take off the injector plugs by depressing the stainless steel release catch. Some will almost fall off, others may be firmer. The loose ones are the ones which are giving you the bad connection. Look into the injector. You will see two brass prongs sticking up. These are the prongs which make the electrical connection in the plug you have just removed. VERY CAREFULLY using long nose pliers, twist each prong about 25 degrees, and put the plugs back on. They should feel tight to slide on. If not twist to 30 degrees.

After that my car is usually good for about 2 to 3 years, and it cost me nothing.

Hope this helps

Originally Posted by discorevy

If you have voltage going through the injectors after you switch the ign off you have a problem
It's good you managed to fix your connectors that way but the main problem with the harness is the capillary action of the oil through the wires , if left long enough will get in to the ecu .....and you can't fix that with long nose pliers?.....just buy a new harness.

+1^^^... also if that 18V thing is real it might be dangerous for the BCU which is more sensitive to voltages than the ECM so IMO it's a bit risky... another thing is that with ignition off the main relay is open so i dont see how any voltage would get to the injectors through the unfed ECM

i'm not trying to contradict cos i'm opened to any experiment but this one seems strange even for me