I know when my fuel pressure reg was leaking there was no vibration. I have had a vibration for a while now, only at idle.
As soon as I bring the revs above idle it is smooth as. Hot or cold, no difference.
I have no doubt it is engine mounts.
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I know when my fuel pressure reg was leaking there was no vibration. I have had a vibration for a while now, only at idle.
As soon as I bring the revs above idle it is smooth as. Hot or cold, no difference.
I have no doubt it is engine mounts.
Well, I might have a possible theory for the vibration.
I had read that the leaking Fuel Pressure Regulator can cause starter motor solinoid problems. Yes I had a few starter problems but I knew what it was so I wasn't too worried. I'd just click the solinoid a few times and away it would go. I figured (maybe wrongly or rightly) ir it failed I could always get underneath and short it out.
I have only just read the Crank Angle Sensor can be effected by the leaking FPR as well. I'm guessing this could have caused my terrible vibration by the injectors fire all over the place.
Happy Days.
Sounds like you are just going to keep throwing parts at this thing with out even checking if its faulty:eek:Quote:
Originally Posted by joel0407
To most of us the obvious is engine mounts as plenty have said then id check the H/B , injector loom ,Viscous fan + Bearing , flex plate T/converter Hell even the gearbox
Sorry but have you even checked the engine mounts:cool:
Woo Woo, just chilax mate. I'm not diving spending money or throwing parts just yet.Quote:
Originally Posted by rangieman
I've been busy. I have just finished replacing 4 x brake rotors because the rears were 0.1mm under min and the fronts were 0.2 off min.
Rear pads were fine but I wouldn't replace rotors without pads. The front pads were all uneven.
One of the boots on one of the front pistons was torn and I needed to remove the piston to replace the boot so that meant a full rebuild of the caliper. If I'm doing one I might as well do the other so I did. One of the slides was stiff on the rear calipers so I decided to rebuild them too.
All this takes time to get parts. I thinks it's taken me about 2 weeks and I haven't bee able to drive the vehicle in that time so I haven't spent any time looking for the vibration problem.
I knew the Fuel reg was leaking so I have also had it out, ordered the parts and I'm working on getting it back in but I need 2 "O" rings and I just need to find the right size. I have started another thread about that and a couple of people are getting back to me.
Rome wasn't built in a day.
It was just an idea I had from reading another post. It did it (the violent vibration) every day when we were away but I was home for a few days before I started to pull things apart and it wouldn't do it once.
Happy Days.
Oh and yes I have looked at the engine mounts and from underneath, I can see they are about 5mm of the bottom which I believe is still good.:D
I don't know how I can check the H/B? I don't know how it could not work when cold but work fine when warm?Quote:
Originally Posted by rangieman
I have done an injector loom before so I know what to expect if it was going.
I have replaced the fan bearing before and I doubt the fan would be under much load when it was cold?
I doubt it's the gearbox when it's in neutral but maybe the T/C?
Happy Days
No need matey just offering something else for you to read on the net :cool:.Quote:
Originally Posted by joel0407
You do what ever and belive what ever at the end of the day;)
Interesting theory there Joel, I have read that the crank angle sensors can be a little finicky, and anything other than OEM isn't upto the task.
Fount my problem. I had sort of worked it out before I replaced them but taking them out confirmed it.
I worked out it wouldn't vibrate if I parked on flat ground but it would when parked facing down hill. Since the handbrake is on the back on the transfer case, the engine was still twisted by the drive train when parked facing down hill.
I guess as they are apparently oil filled or something they vibration was much less when warm as the oil expended.
So the passenger side was totally gone and the drivers side looked pretty similar to the new ones so I kept it as a spare.
Interesting they were both still well over 5mm from the bottom which I had read was a test of if they are gone or not.
TD5 engine mounts from Land Rover in Darwin were $460 each. From Island 4x4, genuine Land Rover were 40 Pound each plus 41 pound shipping for the 2. They are 2.5kg each.
The old passenger side:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...015/08/332.jpg
The new mount: (They are pretty big. Near milo tin size. Bigger than I expected)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...015/08/333.jpg
You can see just how collapsed the old one was:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...015/08/334.jpg
I coouldn't get a photo with my phone with the mount in place but you can see there is no sign of the rubber being bottomed out:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...015/08/335.jpg
The mounts have a single pin to stop the centre turning as the bolt is done up. It doesn't matter if this pin is toward or away from the motor as there 2 holes in the engine bracket to accommodate the mount either way around.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...015/08/336.jpg
The mount was so low I had to bend the heat shield to get a socket on the nut that goes on the Chassis.
Happy Days.
Yay! Great to see you found the prob. It will be smooth and powerful again! Eer, well smooth at least :D
Cheers Scott