D2a Td5 Head

**bidds** · 21st July 2015, 04:03 PM

Hi there,

I think I've read most of the relevant threads on Td5 heads but can't seem to find what I'm after.

Situation: Just got told I'm up for $6200 for a new head (and a viscous fan bearing, incl labour) on my D2a Td5 Auto with 152000 kms.

Symptoms: Coolant leak from head gasket, front r/h side near the ac compressor/ps/ACE mount, running fine otherwise. Engine showing no codes on the Nanocom.

(maybe) Relevant History: I remapped the ECU (from a reputable supplier OS) early last year and cooked the turbo towing a large trailer on a hot day with it locked up in top gear (auto). Should've had an EGT guage but it was only a mild remap and was told it should be OK. I fitted a genuine new turbo and decided to replace the water pump and all other hoses while I was at it; set the ECU map back to standard. Has since done the Simpson Desert and run really well over about 20k kms. I have noticed increased fuel consumption over the last 6/7 months ~13-14 l/100 instead of 11-12 l/100 - put it down to different tyres + lots of offroad and commuting along with the highway time. Haven't noticed any increasing oil levels but haven't been eagle-eye'd for that - just check it periodically.

They're saying it has plastic head dowels and the original heads are junk, etc, etc. Better replace it with an aftermarket one. I'm happy to do that as I want to keep the truck and like a job well done but don't want to p*** money away for nothing.

I do trust the shop but have a few questions I'd like to run past the forum before talking to them tomorrow:
Doesn't the D2a have steel dowels? Is that head regarded as problematic like the earlier D2?

Why would a head gasket leak like that? I regard a leaking gasket as a symptom, not a problem itself (could be wrong). The engine's never overheated, the cooling system is excellent and everything is sorted ASAP. Hate to tally up the $$ and time I've spent over the last five years...

When they've got the head off, I suppose there'll be some concrete answers but anything the forum has to offer would be great! Many thanks in advance.

Bidds :\

**Outback 1** · 21st July 2015, 05:38 PM

i removed the head from a euro 3 recently and it had plastic dowels have a search on the net I think turners in the uk do them for less than $2000
http://turner-engineering.co.uk/html/specialoffers.html
new I'm sure someone will correct me if I am wrong . a new viscous bearing is about $80 new and probably 1-2 hours to fit depending on experience / knowledge so I think at 6200 they are taking you for a ride !

schuy1 · 21st July 2015, 06:00 PM

From what I can glean the dowels are purely to locate the head when fitting. Thereafter the head is torqued correctly and the dowels play no further part. Head gasket failure is the subject of much debate and theory. IMO it is partly related to disimilar expasion rates re alloy head and cast block. The "squirming" that results wear the h/g and leaks result.
Fitting steel dowels in alloy will result in cracking the alloy I think over time.
And yes 6 is way too much! Turners head and fitting kit should b less than 1/2.
Cheers Scott

**Rok_Dr** · 21st July 2015, 06:57 PM

Opps duplicate post

**Rok_Dr** · 21st July 2015, 07:04 PM

Somewhere on the forum there is a thread which gives the vin number change over from plastic to steel dowels, but dammed if I can find it. It was after the EU3 engine introduction though. Also I seem to recall there was a range of vin numbers where retrofitting steel dowels was not recommended.

As to the price quoted, what would be a fair price if parts were sourced locally rather than UK, which will always be cheaper. I also note that the quote includes labor, so how many hours would be required for a competent mechanic to do the work described, along with an allowance for the unexpected. Subject to other members thoughts on these questions, I suspect that the price quoted may be reasonable.

Cheers

Steve

**d2dave** · 21st July 2015, 07:06 PM

Originally Posted by schuy1

From what I can glean the dowels are purely to locate the head when fitting. Thereafter the head is torqued correctly and the dowels play no further part.
Cheers Scott

This something I have often wondered myself, based on me having done hundreds of head R&R's and with a lot of them I have had to put a six foot piece of pipe into one of the ports to crack it from the block.

**Outback 1** · 21st July 2015, 07:07 PM

Originally Posted by Rok_Dr

Somewhere on the forum there is a thread which gives the vin number change over from plastic to steel dowels, but dammed if I can find it. It was after the EU3 engine introduction though. Also I seem to recall there was a range of vin numbers where retrofitting steel dowels was not recommended.

As to the price quoted, what would be a fair price if parts were sourced locally rather than UK, which will always be cheaper. I also note that the quote includes labor, so how many hours would be required for a competent mechanic to do the work described, along with an allowance for the unexpected. Subject to other members thoughts on these questions, I suspect that the price quoted may be reasonable.

Cheers

Steve

having worked in workshops I can say in all honesty that this is probably double what I would call reasonable

**woko** · 21st July 2015, 08:37 PM

Bulletin says steel dowels after Vin 2A736340. Plastic dowels were fitted up until Vin 3A793895. Putting steel dowel in earlier Vin Numbers cracking may result.
I fit steel dowels to all of them. I have never had a issue. But there has been people on here that have reported cracking.
I would get the head checked for cracking and hardness, if ok reuse.

**Islandnomad** · 21st July 2015, 09:03 PM

Have a look at this Thread I started http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-...e-my-head.html , I explain how to do the head for about $5k from memory.

**simonmelb** · 21st July 2015, 10:07 PM

Have you triple checked that the leak is actually from the head gasket? A leaking top hose wil drip and pool in that area and could look like a head gasket leak.

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