Unfortunately the car came with only a spare key, no FOB and I forgot to order one when I had the car at an LR specialist the other week :(Quote:
Originally Posted by AndrewMilne
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Unfortunately the car came with only a spare key, no FOB and I forgot to order one when I had the car at an LR specialist the other week :(Quote:
Originally Posted by AndrewMilne
the D2 alarm is completely different, the only way to synk fobs is with tester and no trick can work as long as the fob doesnt work also as long as the led on the fob doesnt react to the buttons it's not a syncronisation issue.... what you can try again to rule out the microswitches is to introduce EKA but dont try to start it right away, wait 5 minutes and try to start it then... if it starts the fob comunicates with the receiver cos it's activated by the passive remobilisation exciter coil so the microswitches are very suspect but if it doesnt start it means that the fob is completely dead and you need another(provided the passive immobilisation is not disabled in BCU settings)Quote:
Originally Posted by Apocalypsse
Got the EKA code, all numbers are double digits >_______>
Went to try it, put the battery back in the fob and the lights work when I push both buttons but the car doesn't react to it. What's this mean?
EDIT: To make things even more confusing. As I was putting the in the code it made beeping sounds a few times as I was entering the last 2 digits. In the end, the car locked on the final unlock bit for the code, alarm armed and then I tried the remote and it unlocked the car, disabled the alarms and let me start it. Now the remote works fine. So, wtf just happened?!
I once had a (somewhat) similar experience - car was parked in a residential street, locked OK with the remote, but no response when I later tried to open it with the remote. This has been reported by quite a few people, and seems to be due to RF interference from self-opening doors in places like banks, pharmacies, or service stations. I suspect that some remotely-opened home security gates / garage doors may also affect the Disco (2a in my case).Quote:
Originally Posted by Apocalypsse
I obtained and entered the EKA code, and all has been fine ever since (probably 6 months ago).
From your last post, I am a bit unsure whether you have it sorted (as described in your "Edit", or if there is an ongoing problem.
Which is the case, Apocalypsse?
The first 2 numbers went in fine but the last 2 I was getting beeps for like 3-4 key turns in a row. I finished the last number, turned it to unlock as per the instructions and it stayed locked and armed the alarm. Took the key out, hit the unlock on the remote and it worked fine, like nothing had ever gone wrong. Tried it a few hours later and it works just fine.
So I'm just a tad confused after this drama. The only thing I can think of is the key synced with the car while doing the EKA code.
I'd say that you're a relieved man!
Let's hope it stays fixed.
Now that you have the EKA code, you're better equipped if the issue occurs again.
Cheers
Yea, better stick it somewhere safe. Also just for some general info, the LR Dealer I called only asked for the VIN number, no proof of ownership or name or anything.Quote:
Originally Posted by AndrewMilne
better find somebody close to you with nanocom and save your own EKA composed from digits bewteen 1 and 6 to be easyer to insert and there are enough combinations to keep you on the safe side:cool:
Well I drove the car for a week with no problems, left it sitting a week and now it doesn't respond to the fob again >_>. Buttons light up, no response from the car.
Seems like failing roof receiver... they used to be intermittent at the beginning, unless the BCU is making tricks which is possible too considering that it gave some stress with the EKA