Small issue, so where do I start?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Nomad9

Looking at the fuel pressure regulator, it has what looks like a tubed connection, I have searched everywhere to find the tube that this connects to, I believe this is the tell tale so it might well not have anything on it.

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You are correct, nothing connects to that pipe.

Hi There,
Whilst rooting around under the bonnet after going out for a test drive I found these wires under the ABS unit. Is this the shuttle valve bypass? The infamous Option B remedy to the three amigos. If it is the three amigos are still a live and well. Saying that I haven't done a reset yet so I don't know if they have been fixed. Also replaced all the ABS sensors. Buckley Brothers, thank you very much indeedy, great service, very efficient and reasonably priced to boot.

I've also included a picture of the "fleet" all mobile again........ still can't get in the drivers side back door on the TD5, working on that one.

Cheers Marty

Hi, yes it's SVS option B mod provided it's well done and the white wire is linked to the yellow/green one and red is a good ground, you need to check the stored fault codes cos the 3 amigos can be triggered by something else too.

Hi There,
So progress to date cylinder head is now fixed, running really well however I now believe that one of the engine mounts is shot, I'm getting some unusual vibration on tick over. Checked today the drivers side looks pretty average.

Got some ABS sensors from Buckley Brothers, got four from them for a price I would have paid for one in Australia, sad but true. Fitted them last weekend however still had the three amigos during the week. Got the MSV2 out which told me the R/H rear sensor was still not showing a signal. Took that apart today and found the old O-ring was still in the hole plus the new one that came with the new sensor. Took that out, cleaned everything up and lo and behold all dash lights are now all cleared.

Last job today was the rear door latch on the drivers side. I just knew it was going to be a nightmare, it didn't let me down. Thank goodness for you tube....... After I have removed the door card and the window frame, lost the little bar from the door handle to the latch and broken two of the door card clips I was in a fabulous mood. Icing on the cake was breaking the clip that holds the lift latch in the door catch when the weather seal wouldn't sit properly. Thankfully the old latch had a couple of spares.

Jobs now completed, next job is viscous fan bearing and engine mounts, feeling the joy...........[bigrolf]

Hi again, if you replace the mounts, while you have the drivers side engine mount out, have a really good look at the core plugs in your block. A Pretty cheap part if they are looking anything other than great, much easier to do it while the mount is out than having to pull the mount again later when they start emptying all your coolant on the ground. :o

B

Hi Designosaur,
Whilst I had the head off I checked all the core plugs and the general condition of the water galleries with my "Super Cheap" borescope (spelling) as long as I kept the tip of the scope clean it was very good. Air blowing all the water out first helped a lot. Thanks for the suggestion.

Cheers Marty.....

Hi People,
So I thought I had conquered the "three amigos", I must be pretty damn close. I hooked up the MSV2 as mentioned before, cleared the codes and identified the suspect sensor, cleaned that up, all good for the first 5 klms then they were back.............

Since then the ABS light usually clears when I start-up and drive off then usually comes back on again after about 2.5 to 3 klms together with its other two mates.

I haven't hooked up the MSV2 again yet to have a look, any "pearls of wisdom" from the forum. I again suspect a dodgy sensor signal . Option B is installed as mentioned earlier.

Thanks for any assistance rendered......

Cheers Marty.

check the connector on the rear right sensor.

Yes for sensor fault the ABS warning must stay on alone untill the vehicle exceeds 10mph, check stationary sensor inputs, they should be all very close between 2.0 - 2.4V, while you watch nanocom ask somebody to jiggle the sensor's wiring(or diy if you can) along the exposed part untill the plug then above it to see if the signal drops or not, if the signal is steady watch the inputs while driving and concentrate on the problematic one to see if the signal drops to 0 or just fluctuates when the amigos come on