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Thread: Use the right torque values.....

  1. #1
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    Use the right torque values.....

    Hi There,
    More than likely not the right forum for this. As some will be aware I have recently purchased a D2 TD5 ES to compliment the fleet. I bought it with a known head gasket problem, hence the reason it was the price it was. the gent I bought it off stopped using the vehicle before it toasted the engine.

    Anyway more to the point of the post. Every item related to regular servicing has problems, it started with the sump plug which just about fell out of the hole in the sump, this resulted in a trail of oil leading the length of the underneath of the vehicle, how the plug had not just fallen out escapes me. The spinner bolts, both threads stripped, faint trace of oil leaking down the outside of the canister and onto the engine block. Fuel pressure regulator one thread stripped. The oil filter, I had to take the turbo off to get enough purchase on the filter to get it undone. Spinner housing to oil cooler (ally thread), one thread stripped. Once the faces meet metal to metal and the unit still leaks replace the O-ring don't keep on tightening things up and use copious amounts of silicon sealant. Air compressor to bracket one thread stripped.

    Mores the point, all the bolts have a recommended torque number why not use it and when you have doubts or can't get access with a torque wrench feel the torque on a bolt head you can get access to. It is just so annoying finding things like this all the time. Torque numbers weren't put in the manuals to fill in blank pages. Teflon thread tape is not the answer to stripped threads. OK, rant over................

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    p38arover's Avatar
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    Had the vehicle been serviced by the owner or by a workshop?
    Ron B.
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    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



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  3. #3
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    These are all pretty standard things to find on a TD5. While I concur about torque settings, it doesn't take a genius to work out how tight is tight.

    The AC pump was probably the rear right. The centrifugal oil filter cap is common. It is easy enough to just put longer bolts in and re-tighten correctly. The oil filter being too tight is an easy mistake to make on the TD5.

    The rest of it is just poor. You know what is worse, mine was serviced from new by the dealership mechanic the car was purchased from and had the same problems and more. Bolts put in the wrong holes in transfer case, stripped bolts on the rear diff housing, the heater pipe across the back of the motor was jammed between the auto and the motor where the bolt was meant to go through. The list goes on and on.

    You and I share the exact same frustration and it is not unreasonable to expect things to be done correctly (especially as it is no harder) when you pay copious amounts of money for a "service."

    Obviously this is only fair in the case it was not serviced by an owner who also had insufficient ability.

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    Hi Ron,
    In answer to you there is evidence of LR plus some independents having a go, plus in latter years I suspect that some home mechanics have had a go, the gent I bought the vehicle from was what appeared to be a caring LR owner who had entrusted his pride and joy to others and was just enjoying driving the marque.

    So repairs have begun, helicoils is some of the stripped parts, always enjoy installing them. Sump plug hole is now 1/2 inch NPT and awaiting a Fumoto valve to fill the hole, only screw it in once and use the tap to drain the oil, engineer out the problem, and yes I got the lock for the tab. Spinner yeap, longer bolts, oil cooler helicoiled, new O-ring installed.

    Head is still away being "serviced" so I'll helicoil the pressure regulator thread when it returns.

    The three Amigos are still proving troublesome, have to wait for the engine to be going again to progress.

    Feeling the joy..............

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    For me this is a sign of people doing the servicing doing so by feel and having spent too much time working on big lumps of steel that breaks tools first. Some torque settings are that low that even doing until "tight" can be too high.

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    p38arover's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DiscoDB View Post
    Some torque settings are that low that even doing until "tight" can be too high.
    That's one reason I'd like a smaller torque wrench (particularly for motorbikes). Mine is a W&B 1/2" drive.
    Ron B.
    VK2OTC

    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



    RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever

  7. #7
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    I've struggled with the oil filter but I'm the one that puts them on
    Sump plug is always torqued to spec.
    Centrifugal filter is done by feel, but never tight, just 'solid', never had a leak so far. The threads in the housing are stripped, they were helicoiled by someone but they've started to disintegrate so I'm careful about that.

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    Quote Originally Posted by p38arover View Post
    That's one reason I'd like a smaller torque wrench (particularly for motorbikes). Mine is a W&B 1/2" drive.
    Yep - the old Fords I worked on 20 years ago I needed a large torque wrench to make sure I did everything tight enough. Today I am using 1/4" and 3/8" torque wrenches to make sure I am not over tightening.

  9. #9
    schuy1 Guest
    You have hit 1 of my pet hates, the two turns past stripped service "tech"!! I agree totally, why is it so hard to use the specced torques? It seems as if they take it as an afront to their manhood or a weakness !!! A classic was when I got a flat front on my "new" toy the cat backhoe. Wheel nuts supposed to be 340 ft pds, not a low figure but well with in a 3/4 drive breaker bar normally. 6' of pipe with a 84 kg jumping on it and didnt even squeak !!!!!!!! Took that plus a shocking with a 3kg sledge a number of times to get them to move!
    Just far to many gorillas with toothache wielding spanners Im afraid :/

  10. #10
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    If you are prepared to swallow a little pride.........

    Hi there,
    Just finished fighting with the cover bolts on the transfer case with the two through drilled bolt holes.............you know the ones.

    If you are prepared to swallow a little bit of Land Rover pride for five minutes I have now successfully used the Toyota Black sealant on three Land Rover transfer cases successfully, stops that incessant leak from the two through drilled bolt holes in the cover that are below the oil level. I use a synthetic oil in the transfer case which is just that bit more searching, still works.

    Just thought you might like this one.

    Cheers Marty

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