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Thread: Tom Woods Multiple Double Cardin

  1. #1
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    Tom Woods Multiple Double Cardin

    Hi all has anyone tried a TW multiple double cardin front shaft. My front shaft caused a vibration when lifted and the rebuild and balance, and balance again did not cure it. Castor correction may have made it slightly worse. All mounts are good. The angles might just be a little much for the uni. Alternatively while the ball had no play according to Spicers it could i suppose but i threw in a couple of known good shafts for stock vehicles and vibe different but still there. But these were HD uni shafts but still double cardin at one end and uni at the other. My shaft removed and CDL locked vibe goes away.

    Cheers

  2. #2
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    Tow Woods Cardan Joint

    Bought 1 for my D2 about 4 years ago after I had it lifted 2" all-round and have nothing but praise for the quality and excellent durability of the double cardan joint.

    The simple fact that it is completely greasable is a bonus over stock and has me very confident to do deep creek crossings without any concern. You can never over grease them so buy 1 and give it a few pumps of grease after every off-road trip and you'll be rewarded with excellent long life (The joint not yourself :-)

  3. #3
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    Mate i have a hardy spicer double cardin greasible. Is tours4 a double double cardin?

  4. #4
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    I have the same problem. I've looked into other ways of fixing the problem. The only way I can come up with is to lower the engine mounts to bring the front TC flange down. (Rear will go up which needs to be considered)

    The TW DC Shaft seemed to be the easiest solution, not necessarily the cheapest solution though.

    The key reason I think it works is because the factory uni size is 1300 the TW shaft is 1310 (The next size up)

    This means the yokes are bigger for the bigger uni's.

    While having greasable joints will increase the life of the factory size shaft the TW shaft lasts longer possibly because the load is distributed across a larger surface area (bigger uni's) and the uni end caps spin slower so the grease doesn't heap up as much. (Think larger tires cover more distance with one full revolution) I assume this is also what is preventing the vibration also.

    If you would like to see the angles on the uni's from a 2" lift see below:

    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-...-solution.html

  5. #5
    Tombie Guest
    I worked with HS on the development of their DC joint for the D2.

    Never had a balance issue, but then my vehicle was lifted from new and therefore all bearing etc run in at that angle.

    Check simple things like rotating the joint to the TC / Diff end to see if harmonic is being induced.

    The HS joint is fine well past 4" lift...

    Failing that I would be looking at... Pinion Bearings, TC bearings and shaft spline wear on the shaft...

  6. #6
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    So Jazzman the angle of 13 degrees of the DC is angle B in the hardy spicer catalogue? So their angle can take 30 degrees...sounds like im comparing apples with oranges. How do the hardy spicer Unis compare to the 1310 Tom Woods or BP Utah...i take it the HS unis are not big like the HD shafts.

    Jazzman did you conclude that the TW would solve the problem?

    Thanks Tombie. Mate transfer case rebuilt not long ago and vibration only came on with the lift. Do you mean rotate the DC to be say 45 degrees out of phase with the diff end uni? I have thought about that but havent got round to it....can hardly hurt.

    Cheers

  7. #7
    Tombie Guest
    Can be as simple as moving the diff end around 180 degrees...

  8. #8
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by ozscott View Post
    So Jazzman the angle of 13 degrees of the DC is angle B in the hardy spicer catalogue? So their angle can take 30 degrees...sounds like im comparing apples with oranges. How do the hardy spicer Unis compare to the 1310 Tom Woods or BP Utah...i take it the HS unis are not big like the HD shafts.

    Jazzman did you conclude that the TW would solve the problem?


    Cheers
    Not conclusively. I haven't worked my way to the bottom of the problem yet. I'm more or less in the same boat as you with same amount of info.

    I'm finding it difficult to justify $800-$1000 for a prop shaft. If I could buy a TW, HS or BP Utah for $500 I'd buy one tomorrow. I have worked out a way to keep replacing mine with a second hand one for $50 a pop. That equals a lot of prop shafts for $800.

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