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Thread: D2 Td5 wont charge

  1. #1
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    D2 Td5 wont charge

    Hi all
    A couple of days ago, my D2 stopped charging. No big deal i thought. Had enough power to get home. I will fit some new brushes on the weekend.
    Well, did just that to my spare altenator the other night. Pulled the stuffed one out this morning/arvo and fitted the spare with the new bushes.
    Jump started it and the battery light is still on. Hmmm wtf?
    Checked all connections in case i missed one, but no. I cleaned them before i refitted so i dont think thats it. Checked battery terminals, found tight and clean.
    I jump started it again and left it connected to the Commodore. Still charge light is on. I would have thought the power from the other car would be plenty to not trip it
    .
    BCM maybe? My understanding is the bcm controls the charge rate.
    Any help would be good.
    Thanks
    Todd

  2. #2
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    Did you change the regulator at the same time??

    Cheers,

    Jason

  3. #3
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    regulator. sounds like both sides gone.

    dont know if you can replace them on these.

  4. #4
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    Check brake light fuse.
    Kev..

    Going ... going ... almost gone ... GONE !! ... 2004 D2a Td5 Auto "Classic Country" Vienna Green

    2014 MUX LST with fruit
    2015 Kimberley Kamper "Classic"

  5. #5
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    I've checked all of the fuses, internal and external. All look good. I still don't understand how that makes a difference, but it is a LR!

    I reckon the regulator is stuffed as well.
    Bugger. Now I've gotta pull it out again.
    Will take it to the sparky and get him to run it up.
    Thanks all.



    Sent using two tin cans and a piece of string.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by R2D2 View Post
    I've checked all of the fuses, internal and external. All look good. I still don't understand how that makes a difference, but it is a LR!

    I reckon the regulator is stuffed as well.
    Bugger. Now I've gotta pull it out again.
    Will take it to the sparky and get him to run it up.
    Thanks all.



    Sent using two tin cans and a piece of string.
    if the reg diodes go on both sides, youll get nothing out. A surge can knock them, or just unlucky. Its a module these days, so something else may be gone in it

    it used to be easy to pull them out and replace. not now, but ive never done one of these. Good luck with it.

  7. #7
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    Thanks
    I should be able to get a new reg assy. As far as I know it's the same as earlyish Toyota



    Sent using two tin cans and a piece of string.

  8. #8
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    Hi, IMO a bad regulator would not keep the warning lamp on cos the warning lamp goes off if it gets above 7.6V and comes on once it was off only if the voltage drops under 2V, bad regulator has different symptom, did you actually measure voltage on the battery with engine running to make sure that there's no charge at all? if no charge at all measure voltage both sides of maxi fuse FL1 and double check with multimeter not just visually fuse F24 interior fusebox
    Discovery Td5 (2000), manual, tuned

  9. #9
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    Stupid question, but why the brake light fuse?

    Sent using two tin cans and a piece of string.

  10. #10
    Join Date
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    The brake lihght fuse(F25) has nothing to do with charging on a D2, F24 does which is near it, also the alternator has a regulator and a rectifier(diode pack) to not be confused cos they are different items but usually non of them would bring up the warning only a compete alternator output failiure, the regulator faillure would make the voltage to fluctuate but not to miss and the rectifier has 8 diodes in it, they rarely fail all together and there will be output with some sine wave component wich will keep the warning off as it gets the aternator signal on the earth path...did you measure both sides of fusible link FL1?

    1. regulator: http://www.startermotorkits.com/land...r-regulator-2/

    2. rectifier: http://www.ebay.ie/itm/ART109-Denso-...UAXkxfmYDmpUhg
    Discovery Td5 (2000), manual, tuned

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