That what these are for,,
these exchange all the fluid
Brown is ok, burnt smell is bad,
just do your change twice more and its all good(same new filter and gasket).
Blknight wrote the new/old fluid percentage, after three changes, on site some where![]()
Our Disco came with a coupla spares, one being the kit for replacing the ATF filter. Drained the sump - got about 2.5 litres out - and replaced the filter and put in 6 litres of fresh Dex III to get to the overflow. The old oil was brown. Looks like it must have been running rather low as i got out 2 to 3 litres and put back 6. As the sump does not drain the whole 9.7 litres of oil is there a preferred method to completely exchange old oil for new and is it necessary? At least 6 of the 9.7 litres oil capacity is now new.
One annoying thing: the new rubber sump gasket was slightly oversize and there was no way it would fit over the rim of the sump without riding up somewhere. Drove me potty so I reluctantly refitted the old gasket. No leaks, but annoyed that the fresh gasket was U/S. Could I cut it and rejoin with a good RTV?
Was surprised that the Haynes manual gave this job 4 spanners. New shoes on the handbrake was 3 spanners and a real dog of a job by comparison. Odd. Also, the Haynes manual says to clean the filter and refit. Can't see that wiping the outside shiny is going to make a lot of difference. How often would you exchange/ clean the filter? How would you clean it?
Thanks. Sorry to go on so........
Cheers,
Pete
Last edited by Tinggu; 13th November 2015 at 08:06 AM. Reason: speling
That what these are for,,
these exchange all the fluid
Brown is ok, burnt smell is bad,
just do your change twice more and its all good(same new filter and gasket).
Blknight wrote the new/old fluid percentage, after three changes, on site some where![]()
"How long since you've visited The Good Oil?"
'93 V8 Rossi
'97 to '07. sold.![]()
'01 V8 D2
'06 to 10. written off.
'03 4.6 V8 HSE D2a with Tornado ECM
'10 to '21
'16.5 RRS SDV8
'21 to Infinity and Beyond!
1988 Isuzu Bus. V10 15L NA Diesel
Home is where you park it..
[IMG][/IMG]
You beaut machine - I'll whizz out and get one. Not.
Gets expensive on fluid to keep adding fresh and dumping it till runs clean. Was wondering if I could drain sump, put plug back, startup, turn off, drain sump, and do that a few times until no more fluid drains into the sump. Would save successively diluting the bad stuff and using heaps of fluid. Or would the transmission react badly to being empty? From what I've picked up on the forum it's not unusual for Discos to dump all the fluid on the road when a swage pops but all is well after the repair.....
Clean the old filter or trash it?
Thanks for your help!
Pete
No do not do that you will stuff your trans
disco seriesII mods so far:-bullbar,hyd winch,
detriot locker,lsd front,C.D.L kit,chipped and bigger intercooler,2" lift,rock sliders, lsd in transfer case, modified auto trans.
In the event of nuclear war,Disregard this message
Thanks Stevo. Taken on board.
they dont dump all the oil, just whats in the pan.
the reason you have to do the rinse and repeat thing for the fluid change is the torque converter holds a not insignificant amount of fluid.
if you've done the drain top up thing without checking the final level with the engine running then your oil level is low, dont go driving off road at harsh angles.
change the filter, section the old one to look for metallics and friction material.
if you're using a haynes manual for much other than a coaster or a clean spot to put your coffee cup then you're probably getting something wrong. grab a copy of the rave.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
Thanks Dave. I did the job by the book and I'm going to dump another 4 litres and put fresh in just to make sure that what remains of the old stuff is well diluted. Point taken about Haynes. I have the
Discovery Series II WORKSHOP MANUAL - 1999MY ON
Publication Part No. VDR 100330 NAS (6) ? Land Rover 2003
which I believe is RAVE, yes? I find the paper book a useful reference when I'm working on the car, don't have the computer handy. Tablet perhaps? Oops - dropped a spanner on it.........
Will have a look inside the filter. The magnet was just a bit slimy, no bits. I've heard of the trans giving trouble after an oil change. Hope not. Is there any way of adjusting the speed at which 3rd and 4th lock up? Ours locks at just over 80 and unlocks just under. My owners manual says 72kmp which I would prefer, I think. Thanks,
Pete
thats the rave,
no need for anything fancy, find the job you want to do and send the relevent pages to the printer, if you do them often screen shot them or book mark them even laminate the pages. or read the steps you need, write down the notes for the torque settings and then do what you need, rinse and repeat. A chinagraph pencil and the windshield are your friend.
if thats 80 indicated your probably only doing 70ish anyway.
and yes, if the box has been abused and is about to give trouble replacing the oil with fresh stuff restores the lubricity of the oil if the friction material and clutch packs were only just hanging on with the old oil the new stuff will make them slip.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
You can take the fitting off the oil cooler, on the return path. I think, but am not sure, that is the passenger side, and run the car for 30 secs to empty out old, then fill up, repeat until nice oil comes out. But with the filling method on the d2 its a bugger.
Sent from my SM-T530 using AULRO mobile app
Hi Steve,
Think I'll not take the risk on running it dry.
"the filling method on the d2 its a bugger"
I got a cheap pump from SCA and made a stiff pick-up from retic fittings that's a close fit in the 4 litre tub and it all went very nicely with the help of my wife operating the shift.
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