Thread: Getting rid of the double cardan. Using a Defender propshaft

Depends, the DC is a better unit. If you don't take it off road probably OK, otherwise not. I personally wouldn't get rid and if the place can't get the right UJ then go some else, it all came off the shelf at my local hardy spicer, sounds like they might not be the most knowledgeable. ...

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Hi Fellipe,
I wouldn't just yet. LR used the DC shaft for a reason,that being the angle from TC to front diff was to great to be accommodated by a single uni joint.I think,if they could've got away with the cheaper alternative they would've. Some one will jump in with a better explanation,I'm sure,but you have a lot of Defender owners who raise their trucks slightly (50mm) fitting DC shafts to rectify the vibration.

Funny, I went with a DC shaft on my Defender
(a Tom Wood shaft from the US) as the Defender one just isn't good enough with a mild lift.
The flanges were binding at full droop, and the DC shaft is definitely smoother in normal use.


If you get a DC shaft rebuilt with a serviceable centre bearing I'd stick with that.
Land Rover used a standard shaft on the Disco I and Defender with the uni's out of phase purely to save money, it really should have a DC shaft fitted as they did to the first full time 4WD Series III/Stage I Land Rover, and your Disco II.

The PCD of the Disco transfer case output flange won't suit the Defender shaft either, so that will need changing if you decide to use a Defender front prop.

I have a thread relating to this subject on AULRO somewhere. I was running a D1 front prop shaft in my D2a TD5. The only change I needed to make was the front flange on the the transfer case. To be honest it would have all bolted together but the prop shaft on the D1 has a longer recess in the location ring. Hard to describe but easy to understand when you look at the two shafts side by side.

To be honest mate, i didn't like it. I had vibration at 50-60 km/h due to the D1 shaft. It simply just was not smooth.

I'd suggest getting the factory DC shaft rebuilt with serviceable uni's (grease nipples). If you have more than 2" of suspension lift i'd think it would be worth looking at the expensive double cardan (double uni) shafts ie Tom Woods or Hardy Spicer.

To avoid vibration the face of the transfer output flange and the diff input flange need to be parallel, even though they can be at different heights or longitudinal alignment. The reason why there is a DC joint is because the two flanges are not parallel, if you have any sort of lift without slotting the bolts on the swivel balls or using compensating radius rods/bushes then you are making the situation worse and in greater need of a DC joint.

Do what others have said, have the original shaft re-built with a serviceable centre DC joint.

Double cardin definately required. If a lift is put in then even the stockDC set up can bind the unis and cause vibration. Wide open unis from Tom Wood or BP Utah etc can be better in that situation - all double cardin. I think I have resolved that double double cardin is not worth doing on such a short shaft.

Cheers

wouldnt a double double go all wobbly?

Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift

wouldnt a double double go all wobbly?

What about making a complete shaft out of DC joints, it would be like a snake!