well, only one way to find out ;)
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yeah i bought one off fleabay from sydanee and i have to either lock or unlock if i have left it for a while :mad: its a pain sometimes and its starting to wear out the unlock button already:eek:
If it was stated clearely that it's dedicated D2 key you should have sent it back an give him a negative feedback.... i've seen one in those links selling "Range Rover Discovery" keys... remember, the D2 fob is a unique construction, it's suitable only for D2 not others too(i mean to work 100% as it should)... though if it happens with both keys(if there are two) it can be the passive remobilisation exciter coil to be faulty too then it will make the same trick even with genuine fob bought from main dealer
yep, there's always Paypal claims, but of course we have to get it cut and programmed before we find out if it works properly. Anyway, I'll feed back how it goes.
Just a suggestion.
Maybe try a wrecker for a key, any one will do even with a crappy case as long as it is the same frequency as your car. A good check to see if it is working is to press the buttons and if the light illuminates then it is probably OK.
Buy a $8 case with blank blade. The blades pull out of the case anyway.
have the blade cut.
Put the electronics of the old key in the new case and take note of the code written on a piece of paper stuck to the electronics, so it is pretty important that this is in one piece.
Find someone with a Nanocom from this forum, and they will code the key to the ECU using the code on the bit of paper.
You may be able to save some dosh and be sure that the key is fully functional.
Regards Philip A
Hi guys, don't want to hijack this thread, but I have a related question for a D1. I purchased some DI bits and inherited two key fobs and the alarm module which came (and were working) from the same vehicle. Are the fobs programmed to suit the alarm module or the body ecu? i.e., if I replace my alarm module with the new one and put new batteries in the fobs, should they work?
Thanks,
Tom.