A Few Issues to Sort Out on my D2 TD5 - Need a Little Help

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5th December 2015, 09:13 PM
northiam

The free play in the drivers seat, if electric front seats may be simply because the seat is set to the lowest position. Try adjusting it up just 10mm seems to take the rock of of the whole seat!
5th December 2015, 10:40 PM
discorevy

Hi , you seem to be handy with the spanners , so if you can't wait for a compression test , you may as well remove the rocker cover and check the fuel injector bump clearances as well as giving the injector harness a contact clean and continuity check to see if it sorts out the rough running ( just re use the old gasket as they will fit a new one along with injector washers and o rings when they do the comp test) may as well get them to fit a new injector harness while they're in there , usually if you have low compression there will be a corresponding excess of blow by so have a look at that as well but if your intercooler wasn't too oily it bodes well for the blow by :). Great info from the others , would go for the nanocom as well.
6th December 2015, 10:01 AM
steve_a

1 Attachment(s)

Well, after finding freeRave, I can attach the service action bullitin for the eye.

Attachment 102693
7th December 2015, 10:32 PM
TAHAIC

Quote:

Originally Posted by gavinwibrow

For what it's worth, a number of us have our Nanocoms set up in the car in instrument mode. Mine uses the BBS carrier and is attached just in front of the L/H gearbox lever. Gives you accurate instantaneous volts, coolant temp, turbo boost, speed and revs from memory. Then you just add whatever else you want in the way of gauges. Strongly recommend EGT, transmission temp and engine oil pressure. If space becomes an issue - add a Mudpod console.
You can also get a low coolant alarm from our e-shop which is very cheap insurance.
Without rechecking posts, I'm assuming you already have the RAVE CD - again available from the shop.
Welcome and enjoy!

The Nanocoms looks great, I haven't had time to check it out properly yet. Definitely will be putting in a Mudpod after I sort the rd worthy stuff, thanks for the tip. No I don't have a RAVE CD - Do I need one? I downloaded a free copy of RAVE from here:

land rover service factory manual RAVE download land rover resource, service manual, workshop factory manual, download, rave, vehicles including discovery, series, defender, range rover, freelander, LR3, Handbooks, Catalog, Catalogue, Land Rover Inte

Quote:

Originally Posted by Roverlord off road spares

Rear number plate lights failure is usually due to the rear door handle gasket failing and letting water into drip and corrode the the number plate fittings. Starting to become a common repair as the D2s age.
Regards,
Mario

You are totally correct, I need to get a new gasket and handle - there is a crack in the handle.

Quote:

Originally Posted by northiam

The free play in the drivers seat, if electric front seats may be simply because the seat is set to the lowest position. Try adjusting it up just 10mm seems to take the rock of of the whole seat!

I tried that but it still rocks quite badly. There must be something broken in the mechanism. I found a ball bearing under the seat which will be from one of the captive ball bearing races that run on a lead screw. I have no idea - never looked at an electric seat before.

Quote:

Originally Posted by discorevy

Hi , you seem to be handy with the spanners , so if you can't wait for a compression test , you may as well remove the rocker cover and check the fuel injector bump clearances as well as giving the injector harness a contact clean and continuity check to see if it sorts out the rough running ( just re use the old gasket as they will fit a new one along with injector washers and o rings when they do the comp test) may as well get them to fit a new injector harness while they're in there , usually if you have low compression there will be a corresponding excess of blow by so have a look at that as well but if your intercooler wasn't too oily it bodes well for the blow by :). Great info from the others , would go for the nanocom as well.

I thought about checking the continuity but from the oil that's on the external plug I am pretty sure the injector harness is contaminated. As you say when the do the compression test they can just fit a new harness while their in there. Blow by was exactly why I checked the intercooler for oil - I am told though that diesels can bend a conrod which will also give low compression.

Quote:

Originally Posted by steve_a

Well, after finding freeRave, I can attach the service action bullitin for the eye.

Attachment 102693

Awesome, thanks Steve.

I cleaned inlet manifold and when I put it back on torqued to 25 Nm as per RAVE I have to say when I took it off it was loose as a goose. I also cleaned oil from external wiring harness to internal injector harness plug and socket, MAF and MAP sensors all with MAF cleaner (had a look with a mirror and definitely contaminated - oil starting to run down into main external harness by about 50 mm). It seams to be running better now ( I think ), I don't think its running rough anymore but its hard for me to tell since i don know what its should feel and sound like plus I have nothing to compare it to. I'll see what M.R. say about it on Thursday.

I checked for leaks around the FPR and rear camshaft seal with a mirror, they looked OK but I did notice that the head gasket was wet all around the back and around the drivers side back corner along the right hand side until about half way between No 5 and No 4 cylinders. Are the head gaskets a know weak point on these engines?

I was wondering about diff locks since I am contemplating overhauling the transfer case, my Disco is Sept 2002 so does not have any mechanics in place just traction control - I noticed the front and rear diffs are limited slip, what are the possible options for center/front/rear diff locks I read that I would also need a switch to turn off traction control when locking diffs - any input would be welcomed.

I pulled out the hood lining today and will be taking it to the upholster tomorrow. I fixed one of the 3rd row back seats that would not fold up with info from here:

www.discovery2.co.uk / Rear "Dickie" Seats - Stuck

I need to fix sunroof leaks, get some paint matched for the roof and have a look at the drivers seat tomorrow.

EDIT:
Can anyone confirm that since my EGR valve is blocked shut/closed that this will not be causing a problem with an EU3 system? i.e. confirm that I can block off EGR without making any software changes? I was thinking that this could be a cause of poor engine performance if the software needs to be changed ( or clean the EGR valve). As stated earlier I want to delete the EGR but after I get the rd worthy sorted out. thanks again for all the help :)
7th December 2015, 10:40 PM
TAHAIC

Quote:

Originally Posted by steve_a

9. Transfer case oil leaks
There are a few places this can leak.
GEARBOX output shaft seal, you might no be able to tell the difference after it sneaks through between EP90 and ATF
Transferbox input shaft seal.
The O ring on the intermediate shaft, this is the sleeving job. You may get some mileage out of just O ring replacement, that was what I just did.
The front casing to main case face, I reckon I have seep from here, I should have done that when I had it off.
The front casing side plate - I did reseal that one.
The rear output case.
Lots of the bolts go straight into the transfer case cavity so need some thread lock or thread sealant/tape to avoid a seep.

It's a creeping job though, if you take it off to do the intermediate, I suspect you'd be so far into it that you'd want to think about doing a full transfer box overall (including front diff) otherwise you'll get it back together later and think why didn't I (or maybe it's just me). They are apparently not too complex to do, but I've never done one, yet.

Can anyone point me towards some good info on a full transfer box and centre diff overhaul please?
8th December 2015, 06:41 AM
Pedro_The_Swift

are they lockers or limited slip?
cant have both, (ok one at each end:D)
lockers will have dash switches,
(How do you tell if someones fitted a LSD ???)
Was it Stevo thats just fitted a LSD to his centre diff??
now where was that,,,

try this,,

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-...-overhaul.html
8th December 2015, 05:23 PM
TAHAIC

I removed the drivers seat and I need to replace the Right Front Driver Seat Track Complete (With Motors preferably) - any advise on Land Rover wrecking yards in Brisbane/South East corner?
9th December 2015, 05:59 AM
TAHAIC

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift

are they lockers or limited slip?
cant have both, (ok one at each end:D)
lockers will have dash switches,

Oh OK - I guess they are not limited slip then, I don't know what I am talking about :D.
Everything on this car is original so please educate me!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift

(How do you tell if someones fitted a LSD ???)

I would like to know the answer to that.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift

Was it Stevo thats just fitted a LSD to his centre diff??
now where was that,,,

try this,,

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-...-overhaul.html

So the disco's that came out with lockers are they on the front and rear diff's or the centre diff or all three? What was the factory config? What is best config?
9th December 2015, 08:07 AM
discorevy

[QUOTE=Pedro_The_Swift
(How do you tell if someones fitted a LSD ???)

Jack the diff up so both wheels are off the ground , spin one wheel and if the other wheel rotates in the same direction , then it's a LSD

or just lay some rubber:twisted:
9th December 2015, 08:42 AM
strangy

Your 02 model has traction control only. Earlier models had a Centre Diff Lock (CDL) fitted without the mechanism to activate. Later models had the CDL mechanism and lever to activate.
No D2 came with front or rear diff locks or LSD from the factory.

Ashcroft transmissions have much useful info on transfer case rebuild on their website.
For many manuals bulletins etc - look on the top right of the page and you will see "FILES" 2nd from right.
Enjoy - dont forget to check out the "Good Oil" too.
LT230 Rebuild > http://www.aulro.com/afvb/local_link...catid=7&id=125
and Ashcroft link here > http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/

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