Nailed it Strangy![]()
"How long since you've visited The Good Oil?"
'93 V8 Rossi
'97 to '07. sold.![]()
'01 V8 D2
'06 to 10. written off.
'03 4.6 V8 HSE D2a with Tornado ECM
'10 to '21
'16.5 RRS SDV8
'21 to Infinity and Beyond!
1988 Isuzu Bus. V10 15L NA Diesel
Home is where you park it..
[IMG][/IMG]
Whats the best way to go about fitting a centre diff locker?
I am assuming it would be best to use factory setup from a donner diff - would that be correct? Or should I use an after market centre locker?
From what I have read I think I need a switch to turn off the traction control when using the centre locker to stop drive shafts from being broken - is this correct? If so any info on how to do this?
Also I want to flush my power steering and ACE systems but I can't find capacities so I know how much fluid I need. does anyone know the capacities for each?
The fluid from Land Rover is $73 for 1 ltr which is way too expensive. I have found Penrite PAS001 to be equivalent to Texaco 14315 (as per RAVE) but it is only available in 1ltr bottles and is $28. I only want to run OEM equivalent any suggestions for better price and larger quantities?
Thanks again - you guys are a big help!
I had to make some decisions today with respect to the transfer case and centre diff lock when I put my Disco in with M.R. Automotive. Sooo ... I decided to get them to go ahead and machine the casing and sleeve the intermediate whilst doing a complete rebuild on the transfer case and centre diff + fit the centre locker mechanics which my late model 2002 dosen't have. I will fit some kind of lever kit later - just made scene to get a centre locker when its being pulled apart in my opinion. I'm assuming this will be all factory mech from the way the conversation flowed, I didn't actually ask that question though. Its a trade off of time vs money and for this part I think I'm better of spending money to save time.
I am kinda answering my own question here about the switch for the TC, found great info in this thread:
series 2 discovery diff lock
I should have results of the compression test tomorrow - fingers crossed.
M.R. talked to me today and they said that they did not do a compression test because in their opinion the engine is now running perfectly after the work that i did to it.I think the biggest thing was the loose bolts on the inlet manifold and the MAF and MAP clean may have contributed as well.
Best to get CDL actuator fitted up ASAP. Best to lock centre diff as soon as you leave the bitumen, easier on the box that way.
No need to disable traction control when centre diff is locked. It's the very thing that makes these such capable vehicles.
Good on you mate, you're hooking in!
What are the options for this?
EDIT:
looking at this I think I would like to go for a pneumatic actuator since I plan to fit a separate compressor and front and rear lockers later. I like the idea of having switch's in the cabin to activate the lockers and to be able to use on-board compressor to pump up tyres. I found this post with info on an actuator from CM manufacturing in the States but they don't seam to exist anymore - any info on current suppliers for CDL air actuators?
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-...ctuator-2.html
Last edited by TAHAIC; 11th December 2015 at 07:53 AM. Reason: more info
"How long since you've visited The Good Oil?"
'93 V8 Rossi
'97 to '07. sold.![]()
'01 V8 D2
'06 to 10. written off.
'03 4.6 V8 HSE D2a with Tornado ECM
'10 to '21
'16.5 RRS SDV8
'21 to Infinity and Beyond!
1988 Isuzu Bus. V10 15L NA Diesel
Home is where you park it..
[IMG][/IMG]
For those interested - I had my left hand horn button launch itself into the back seat the other day - I just ordered a horn button wiring assy part No QTN100270 genuine from Land Rover for $174.00 which is actually cheaper than whats available online. IMO if the button is worn then so to will be the base that it clips into so I went for a brand new assy.
My Transfer case and centre diff have been overhauled and a CDL housing fittedUnfortunately there is no wiring for the CDL switch in the factory wiring harness
M.R. say they have never seen that before - normally the wiring is in the factory loom. Dose anyone know what the deal is with that?
Looks like I will need to run a wire(s) not sure if I need to run up to under the gear selector (might be a plug under there) or all the way up to the dash - or exactly where to connect it. Any info would be appreciated.
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