). When I questioned the inspector he said that in his opinion the air bags where too soft and did not provide satisfactory spring action when going over a bump and was adamant it was the air bag and not the shocks/dampeners. 
. I hit the oil leaks up with a high pressure cleaner the day before to get a good look at what was going on when I took it there, and they wear of the opinion that the transfer case was leaking from the main input shaft area and needed to come off (the leak is quite bad). apparently there is an on going problem with this as Land Rover have been using the same transfer case for years and are still continuing to use it and have never addressed the issue. M.R. offer to machine the casing and sleeve it to fix this problem permanently which seems logical to me. Does any one have input/advise on this? I could save a bit money by purchasing a sleeved case and doing the job myself and was wondering whats involved in doing it myself - are there any traps with shims and/or pretensions? Is there a good guide on the forums for transfer cases? I haven't had a chance to do a search so any help would be appreciated. 
! I then took it to Hardy Spicer and had it balanced for good measure.
Oh dear! Well I didn't mind to much because the sump gasket really needed replacing anyway and it really was a blessing in disguise because that then made me do more research and I learned of the infamous oil pump bolt which I consequently replaced and all though the bolt was tight there was NO locking compound on it! 
Reply With Quote1. Front drivers seat assembly - excessive free-play
Not sure what you can do about that, you'll probably need to take the seat out and see what can be done, maybe a bit of bending or welding a bit of material back on.
2. Rear number plate lights inoperative
3. Front right indicator lens cracked
4. Hood lining insecure
That's actually a roadworthy thing? Did you annoy the guy.. Even the UK didn't have that kind of thing, thankfully SA doesn't have it all
5. Rear air bag suspension faulty
There isn't any adjustment for the rear air bag pressure, you can change the rest height with a nanocom. However, it is more likely that it's rebound and damping so new shock absorber not bag.
6. Front diff leaking oil
7. Wide spread engine oil leaks
Check the Fuel Pressure Regulator, this can easily be mistaken as oil, it is diesel after all and collects all the dirt on the way down. It then collects in that cavity you were aiming for
The FPR is well known for leaks
8. Gearbox oil leaks
It looks like an auto, so as you'll see, check the pipes running to the cooler. Specifically the swages from rigid to flex and the actual connectors to the cooler. Don't be gentle, if they come apart or the swages can be twisted then they will fail. As a temporary (like forever temporary maybe.. ) you can replace both swage and connector with hose clamps, suggested best method is two clamps, one on either side of the raised section of the pipe.
Leaks elsewhere, like ATF from the bellhousing, would require box out to fix seals.
9. Transfer case oil leaks
There are a few places this can leak.
GEARBOX output shaft seal, you might no be able to tell the difference after it sneaks through between EP90 and ATF
Transferbox input shaft seal.
The O ring on the intermediate shaft, this is the sleeving job. You may get some mileage out of just O ring replacement, that was what I just did.
The front casing to main case face, I reckon I have seep from here, I should have done that when I had it off.
The front casing side plate - I did reseal that one.
The rear output case.
Lots of the bolts go straight into the transfer case cavity so need some thread lock or thread sealant/tape to avoid a seep.
It's a creeping job though, if you take it off to do the intermediate, I suspect you'd be so far into it that you'd want to think about doing a full transfer box overall (including front diff) otherwise you'll get it back together later and think why didn't I (or maybe it's just me). They are apparently not too complex to do, but I've never done one, yet.
"Now that I have a couple of weeks I decided to address these issues and check the mechanics out as best I can but its all really hinging on the compression test next week. So I jacked it up and set to work."
The other check is the injector loom, pull off the connector on the ECU next to the battery and see if any sign of oil and pull off the connector drivers side front underside of the rocker cover (you'll see the connector). If either of these show oil then it's time to replace the injector loom (under the rocker cover) and give the connector from engine to ecu a good clean.
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