Well I have removed the manifold the front two studs were loose hence the leak and squeal mind you some one had used grade 8 bolts not studs . No broken studs but I will replace all 10 with new ones and new nuts.
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That depends...Quote:
Originally Posted by nismine01
Oh hi, Since you're comfy and all, while we wait for the rest of the audience how about we clarify whats being asked but first and far more importantly is that buttered or salted caramel?Quote:
Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift
Mike, do you want me to tell you how I do it or do you want me to tell you the way that you're most likely to be able to do it?
still healthy enough for salted caramel:p
*flops open a camping chair, cracks 2 stubbies drops one in pedros arm rest takes a slug steals some popcorn and waits for the crowd and mikes response*Quote:
Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift
I'll we watching this thread as I will be doing mine shortly. Is there a link in TGO to do it?
pull up a chair, ask your questions and if their aint there will be...Quote:
Originally Posted by SPROVER
*materializes another stubbie, pops it and offers it out.
hell you might even wind up doing the pictures for it, but first things first, lets find out what Mike needs to know first, and while we wait you might as well think up what you might want to ask.
*steals more popcorn
OK ok i have a few questions 😆 Do you really need bigger studs? I have another manifold which has been skimmed. So it's ready to go on soon. Should I be buying bigger studs? My td5 is modified with hybrid turbo, bigger intercooler, 23 psi boost, egr delete and so on. What are your thoughts on this subject? 😃 I really would like to know ☺
really need bigger studs, no. but they are a smart move if you have to replace studs and have the gear and confidence or the money to have it done as part of the repair work.
less so if you have the dewebbed manifold, even less so if you have elongated stud holes and use cone washers.
sounds like you've done all the good work and have the attitude to get it all sorted..
so onto making the holes in the gasket bigger...
The way I do it personally when prepped to do it is to use an internal tapered 10mm hole punch a block of wood and a hammer.
the way I do it if Im not ready for it is with two bits of timber and a bunch of bolts.
first off use the gasket to mark out an 8mm bit drill pilot holes in 2 pieces of pine planking. use the center most stud holes drop bolts in to hold the gasket in place drill and 5 more through the middle of the ports. then do the rest working your way out from the center.
take the back bit of wood off, remove half your bolts and push them through from the back of the wood DONT move the gasket. when you have all the bolts through the back bit of wood poking up through the gasket push what was formally the rear bit of wood onto the bolts. tighten up the center 3, put the 5 bolts through the drillings in the port voids and then carefully drill all the other holes with a 10mm bit.
place and tighten bolts in the holes either side of where the 3 currently undrilled 8mm holes are, remove the 3 bolts from the undrilled holes and drill them.
if you decide that method is too much effort (and you can do it with twitching wire if you dont have bolts) and decide to purchase a punch make sure its a cylinder punch that has the sharpening taper going to the center of the punch, if you get the ones that have the taper on the outside when you hit it through it can cause the gasket to split.
I was talking to JC a while back and he reckons that you only need to use the larger studs on the two outer studs at each end.Quote:
Originally Posted by SPROVER
Generally from a keeping it all together point of view, I agree.. However.Quote:
Originally Posted by d2dave
Im lazy... I like it when I size up on a nut on a manifold look at the places the hidden bolts/nuts are going to be and go.. "rrrrhmmmnnnn... that'll be XX 3/8 into a 3/8th wobble extention 6 inches long to get to there and rest on that component, into a uni to square back into the 3/8th 4 inch extension bar and put the head of the breaker bar right there, I can lean my arm there, cup the head of the breaker bar... just like so, twist my hand to keep just enough forwards pressure annddd. Push there we go its off, swap this hand to here hol that pull back a little let the breaker fall down onto there, reach to here and relocate the socket onto there push, swap hand hold that and pull the breaker and thats off too. Ok thats the hard ones done, leave the socket extensions and sockets sitting, hit the other bolts with the 1/2 inch drive and come back snap in the ratchet and unwind, reverse postion swap nuts, drop the old one onthe floor and go again." and in 10 minutes the manifolds off.
as opposed to..
OK I just feed the socket on the swivel extension onto ther.... hey that doesnt feel right, is that rounded? cant see it, that could be bad, I'll just get the boroscope and a torch, nope its not rounded.... I'll just try to push the socket on and ahh crap its a different size,,, next one up.. yep thats it.. ok so now its socket to swivel to uni to extneion to breaker and hand and push and relocate and push and clunk....... what..... that didnt feel right.. ok boroscoepe and ohhh goody, I just rounded the normal size nut a little, ok so away with the 3/8ths, out with the 1/2 inch 6 point impact sockets. change exntenstion bars, change unis, change breaker bar, spray in some more wd40, hit it with the brake clean and the compressed air, put a bit of toolgrip into the socket, feed it all in, lean on it just right.... and 20 minutes later Ive used twice as many tools and only undone 2 nuts partially.
it also means you have to remember which ones go where and if you have to order in spare parts you now have more parts to remember...
all bolts and nuts doing the same job on the same bit of the engine should be the same size, if its overkill in one area, good.