Printable View
As stated in a previous post by MATTG on a disco you can access the bottom bolt through the gap in the wheel arch with a 3/8 socket with an extra long extension bar. I tried it and it works fine. I joined 3 bars together and you can easily use a torque wrench
John
I have recently gone through this common FPR leak issue and I highly recommend either rebuilding your original genuine housing with genuine gasket and o rings or if someone has previously fitted an aftermarket unit to purchase a genuine replacement.
Ive had to work on mine a couple of times, first off i replaced with an aftermarket unit to save a few bucks and it kept leaking and was rebuilt twice (with genuine rebuild kit), which tells me they may not have been a perfect casting!! upon removing it the last time to rebuild yet again I made the decision to bite the bullet and get a new genuine FPR as the hose fittings on the aftermarket were corroding after only 14 months of being fitted and I was sick of rebuilding it.
The new genuine one has not missed a beat so far so i think its money well spent to get the genuine as its a PITA to get to.
Yep that's all although the metal gaskets will do a 2nd turn-a-round as it's not the FPR housing that leaks, it's the actual FPR diaphragm that fails and the new FPR comes with O-rings. The o-ring kit is more for the quick-release fuel couplings.Quote:
Originally Posted by fellipe
That and some patience. I removed the engine lifting hook and left it off as I didn't intend removing the engine for some time :-)
I also removed the heater hoses as the more room you can get the better as it is very tight. I use Snap-on 1/4" drive sockets with a wobble extension so with some effort got the housing off. As mentioned previous, you can go through a hole in the inner guard to get the bottom bolt out as it can be tough to get enough torque to get it loose - a 1/2 inch drive and extension/s will help here.
The removal of the FPR from a TD5 engine in a Defender is an absolute walk in the park compared to a D2 as the 'Fender has plenty of room for fat fingers and small tools.
Persevere with it - once it's off and you've swapped out the old FPR, it goes back on in the blink of an eye!
Next time mine fails, I will be using this;
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/pr...w=w380-h387-nc
And a nice standard Malpassi or turbosmart fuel r reg.