The other well known leak point in that area is the "half moon" at the rear of the rocker cover which should have some sealant on the gasket there.
A new rocker cover gasket with correct sealant is the fix.
Regards Philip A
Hey guys...
After a regular quick visual inspection found this. It doesn't smell like diesel which makes me wonder if it's really the FPR... Any thoughts?
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The other well known leak point in that area is the "half moon" at the rear of the rocker cover which should have some sealant on the gasket there.
A new rocker cover gasket with correct sealant is the fix.
Regards Philip A
Thanks. Sounds like a nice DIY job for the next few months
The actual Fuel Pressure Regulator is the small cylindrical device poking out of the FPR housing (Indicated with the black line).
Don't discount it as it leaks diesel downwards and will eventually ruin your starter motor. The fuel can be blown around the area by the engine fan and wind while driving and look a whole lot worse than it really is. It won't always have a distinctive diesel smell as it will dilute any oil that is around the area and particularly, from the rear rocker cover seal.
Be aware that it is a difficult, fiddly, PITA job to get the housing off and replace the FPR but on the upside, it's a 15 minute job to get it back on and they last for years. For a small performance boost, fit a Bosch 4bar FPR. These FPR's also come with a 'tail' on the outlet that allows you to attach a length of fuel hose so you can route any fuel away from your starter motor.
gAEZwkS.jpg
D2a Td5 Manual, Chawton White. aka "Daisy"
Build date 11th Oct 2003
Freelander 2 2011, manual, the daughter calls it Perri
Before I had a Land Rover I did not have any torque wrenches. Now I have three.
LROCV #1410
ratchet spanner my tail end.
10mm 1/4inch drive socket set with a uni or wobble bars.
make a guide dowel
(if you want a sample bolt to get the thread size and bolt size use one of the ones from the engine lift eye they're the same)
clean it to spotless, remove one bolt, install guide dowel remove FPR housing hoses, remove FPR housing, replace what you want clean the surfaces, hang the gasket on the guide dowel, put the FPR housing on the guide dowel, insert one of the other bolts make sure the FPR housing and the gasket are alinged right, push it home and finger tight the bolt, place in the other bolt, remove the dowel, place in the last bolt (dont forget your loctite 243 on the bolts before you start) put the hoses back in place, check the alingment on the housing and torque the bolts down.
heres a howto
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-t...te-images.html
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
Just found out today my FPR is needing worked on ,do you have to replace the whole unit or can you repair it , why i ask, on EBAY there is repair kits for around $40, and also there is a big difference in prices for replacement FPR,, what is the best or maybe only way to go, and to buy from where.
many thanks
yes they can be repaired, have a look at the thread i linked for you.
lots of places can supply the parts or complete units.
MR automotive
roverlord off road spares (on the forum fling him a pm)
ebay
paddocks from the UK.
just to name four
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
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