Thread: CDL wiring what does the second wire do

Possibly voltage signal to SLABS to check the dash light is functioning?


If so then no problem with it remaining connected.

Originally Posted by PhilipA

The second wire goes to the instrument pack , then changes to pink orange and goes to terminal C0504 9 of the SLABS. I guess this is for the diff lock light, but I wonder what it then tells the SLABS by going to it.

Hi Philip, ii'm afraid you've got it wrong, the difflock switch input to instrument pack C0230-8 it's the input for the CDL warning... period, it doesnt change to pink/orange from C0230-10 that's other input to the instrument pack from SLABS C0504-9 = "brake warning lamp output"... dont confuse the instrument pack with a header joint

Seeing i don't appear to have any zip tied or unused connectors, then i will have to join a wire from the cdl switch to both of them and another to earth.
I haven't yet accessed the c0761 to see if there are any black/blue wires there yet.
I am having a break after switching the bearings and shaft from my nose to the cdl nose.
regards Philip A

I'm almost sure that you'll find the black/blue wire at C0681-7 if that's what you want cos i dont understood what you are after

From memory there is only one switch on the box )that didn't have the internals ) and it was to tell the slabs ECU that the box was in low range. I used that for the diff lock switch and put in a dash switch that i push to tell the SLABA ECU that the box is in low range. I cant recall the details now...quite a few years ago. Cheers

The D2 CDL box should have 2 switches. 1 for low/high range which alters the throttle mapping. The other is CDL, which has the wire run off to the junction box under the centre console I think and then it splits off with one wire to SLABS and the other to the dash CDL light. I think most cut the lead from the CDL switch because its easy and you don't have to pull the console out to do it. If you fit a momentary switch off for restarting you can have the CDL locked so SLABS doesn't see this and retain ETC on startup and then when you take your finger off the button you will have the dash CDL light working.

Mine was the model where they removed the internals in the output housing....they removed one of the 2 switches also on mine unfortunately. They are basic on off switches. In my case I simply put a second HDC switch under the real HDC and when I select low i just push the switch (latched) and that tells thebSLABS ECU that she is in low to make the ETC more aggressive etc. The original switch on the box i swapped to use to illimunate to diff lock light when i diff lock it. Cheers

I broke the flimsy aftermarket switch when trying to push on the blade connectors. bloody rubbish.
I have just about finished and it looks like all is well. It locks when the lever is moved left, and I can get H and L.

I spent hours taking out the detent ball for H L to ensure it wasn't lost, then the bloody shaft stayed in place when I took the front off. It is right up behind the torsion damper weight .

The T bar has the same info as the dash so looks OK.

I also spent a long time doing up the bolt that holds the HL cable in place. I ended up making a tool by cutting down an old swivel head spanner i had as it was the only way to reach it, as it is behind the two bolts that hold the HL selector housing in place and the floor is close.

I have run wires up to C681 but not yet connected them seeing I couldn't fix the switch. I guess C681 is SLABS side of connector.

I have a broken transmission mount so first job tomorrow is to find one.
Only jobs now are fit front shaft, crossmember, fill trans, new transmission mount, and get another diff lock switch hopefully with decent rivets holding the blades. I soldered them but it didn't last.

I ma a bit disappointed by how the dioff lock cable seems to have zero clearance with the trans and it sits on a couple of bolts on the transmission.
Regards Philip A