cuts out about 65degrees from memoryQuote:
Originally Posted by PhilipA
Printable View
cuts out about 65degrees from memoryQuote:
Originally Posted by PhilipA
The standard thermostat is 82 degrees. The point of the exercise is to increase the difference between the engine temp when towing and the engine boiling point. The engine temp when towing is 110 or there abouts. The boiling point is 120 or there abouts. That is only a difference of 10 degrees. Given a strong tailwind and the temp goes up very close to 120. The engine temp is not controlled much by the thermostat because all it does is allow water to flow through the radiator. But the radiator provides some resistance to this flow where as the by pass continues to pump hot water directly back to the engine. On a D2 V8 this by pass pipe is almost the same size as the radiator inlet pipe and much much shorter with no resistance from a radiator. If the by pass is deleted then the engine runs about 35 degrees less than boiling. The heater provides a circuit while the thermostat is closed.Quote:
Originally Posted by trout1105
It will be interesting to compare fuel consumption.
A few years ago an emissions tester for the goverment told me that the emissions of a worn engine are not within specifications even though they may have been when new. That is why the Japanese will not register cars with more than 30 - 40,000 kilometres on the clock. I think factory emission levels are well gone by now on most D2's.
After getting a fair bit of water in the air box last weekend on rather shallow river crossing, about 1100mm, I removed the raised air intake, airbox and angled connector that goes form the fender/wing? to the airbox. I was quite suprised that the sikaflex auto motive had failed to adhere to the various parts. The entire raised air intake came out very easily.The sikaflex had not stuck, or had came loose, maybe with vibrations over the past 2 years.
I used my high lift jack, aka the widow maker to raise the body so that I could remove the wheel. A lot more room to work with. I locked the centre diif and strongly applied the parking brake. As the front wheel left the ground, the car only moved about 8 cms forward. Hence the widow maker moniker. After I removed the wheel, I placed an axle stand under the steering guard and two car ramps, one on top of the other under the body sill, where the rock sliders are. Lowered the high lift jack until the body was secure and removed the high lift jack. A bit of pushing and shoving indicated that the body was indeed secure.
The airbox duck bill valve (Sealed with sikaflex) was full of mud, or dust and water. I sliced through the sikaflex and snded up with a working duck bill valve.
I did notice, at the bottom of the airbox, a molded in hole. I sealed this up.
I sikaflex evreything up as I re assembled the snorkle. I tightened up the bolts that fix the snorkle to the wing. The A pillar mounting holes did not match. I loosened the bolts, lifted the raise air intake, aka snorkle and was able to fit the A pillar mounting bolts. The retightened the snorkle/wing bolts.
I am hoping, that after half of a cartridge of sikaflex, the only way into the air box will be the raised air intake, and the only way out will be the outlet to the turbo.
I am a bit concerned that the pipe that fits intoi the air box has movement. Is there an O ring there?
Problem solved not more leaks https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...f4c87842ba.jpg
The 90° fitting into the air box is only clipped in.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bohica
Remove it, clean with brake cleaner, apply a bead of silicone and push back in.
I haven't done a proper check over my regular run but I have done more kilometres per tank of fuel than normal. True a lot of highway only work and only 10 or 20 k's of city driving. I will do a proper check soon. But I can now climb a hill on my usual route at 100 kph when previously 80 - 85 was best I could get. Foot flat to the floor and gearbox down a gear. Why????? Doesn't make sense to me. I haven't done anything else just running 19 degrees cooler. I cannot wait to do a proper k's per 100 check. But might be a week or two before I do a known run. I am keen to see if I am imagining things or not.Quote:
Originally Posted by PhilipA
I have done quite a bit of research and the Land Rover University has a good analysis of the cold start sequence.
The previous poster is correct that the cut out for the temp sensor is 65c although there are other controls such as time since start.
so the car should not overly enrich .
regards PhilipA
Finally ditched the plastic front diff fill plug - and annoyingly both the front diff and rear diff had different fill plugs requiring different tools, now both are the same[emoji1417]
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...b4b8fc3f16.jpg
I tested the brake fluid, replaced last April, it told me that the brake fluid had >4% water. It has to be replaced.
The question is, how much brake fluid do I pump through per corner, to ensure all the old fluid is pumped out? Lat year I pumped through until the brake fluid came out clean.