What happened to your Discovery 2 today?

I didn't think the D1 and D2 transfer cases needed extra cooling... Strongest part of the vehicle...

Cheers

Hi OZscott,
As mentioned that little bit more oil and additional cooling, no other reason, seemed like a good idea at the time. The flange on the extension is also a little bit thicker which allows less deflection when tightening the bolts, no oil leaks. I had also heard a couple of others saying that theoil leaks had stopped when they fitted the extension. Mine isn't leaking so far........

Cheers Marty.

Thanks mate. Very interesting. Cheers

Hmm, my experience is that the oil colour indicates that the LT230 runs quite hot when towing.
I did a round OZ with my 2002 TD5 auto towing my 1000Kg camper and when I returned home I inspected diffs and transfer oil.

The two diffs were nice and golden brown but the transfer oil was black after being changed before the trip.

Now this is pretty unscientific I guess but I have put heavier oil in by mixing 80-90 and 85-120 50-50. Subsequent inspection shows golden brown.

I have bought an extended sump and will go back to 75-90 full synthetic GL5 after I have fitted it to ease cold ratio and diff lock changes..

In the meantime I have fitted a centre diff lock and there was no evidence of brass swarf in the nose of my transfer in stark contrast to the CDL nose that I fitted, so the oil must have been pretty good.

But IMHO you have to watch the oil colour in an LT230 to try to get longevity and change it often.
Regards Philip A

I seem to recall that on a D2 V8 one of the engine pipes runs through the area where a deep sump would be fitted, and a heat shield bolts to the face of the LT230. Would make fitting a deep sump an interesting exercise.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Nomad9

Hi OZscott,
As mentioned that little bit more oil and additional cooling, no other reason, seemed like a good idea at the time. The flange on the extension is also a little bit thicker which allows less deflection when tightening the bolts, no oil leaks. I had also heard a couple of others saying that theoil leaks had stopped when they fitted the extension. Mine isn't leaking so far........

Cheers Marty.

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The oil leaks from the sump are usually from the bolts, a few of them go directly into the transfer case cavity where the oil is and the oil wicks past the threads and drips off the bolt heads. Sealing the bolt thread correctly generally stops the leaks. Easy fix, but when the oil is leaking from higher up it involves removing the transfer from the gear box to fix the seals.
Cheers, Mario

Or you could try 8mm hydraulic "Dowty" washers. Seems to work for me.

Hi There,
So time to go in........... After finding a small peice of plastic in the sump when replacing the sump gasket I've now ripped the head off and taken the timing cover off, the tenioner on the left of the engine is missing a bit from the top of the guide and the pastic guide bit is loose on the metal backing plate.

Some sound advice from the forum here, glad I took things apart and found what I did, could have been significantly worse.

Decided to replace the engine mountings while I was in there, not much easier with the head off, I thought it might be a lot easier. Only plus was the fuel cooler was already disconnected.

485,000 kilometers on the clock and it is the first time the head has been off, plastic dowel pins were no where to be found.

Cheers Marty

That's great! Good mileage with pins gone walkabout. Cheers

I'd be interested to see a compression test on the motor once it's back together, the bottom ends on these are very solid.
Great work!

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