What happened to your Discovery 2 today?

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Originally Posted by Tombie

That’s why I ran internal bead locks. Both beads covered and no potential rim damage.

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I also like the factory D2/P38 rims for their bead retaining.

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Originally Posted by Slunnie

I also like the factory D2/P38 rims for their bead retaining.

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Bead retaining? I damn did my back trying to break the bead when I tried to change a tyre!!

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Originally Posted by Bohica

Bead retaining? I damn did my back trying to break the bead when I tried to change a tyre!!

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I bet! I don't think I'd even try!

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Originally Posted by Slunnie;[URL="tel:3120364"

3120364[/URL]]I bet! I don't think I'd even try!

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I had the Australian Army tyre pliers! Still no go. I have seen a tool at 4WD shows that is good at removal. Forget the name, not the price $500

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Originally Posted by Bohica

I had the Australian Army tyre pliers! Still no go. I have seen a tool at 4WD shows that is good at removal. Forget the name, not the price $500

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I think the R&R Beadbreaker is the only one I've heard of that will work on them.

Gone.
I cant believe these things are left still out in the wild

Also..... A bit annoyed the blanking kit doesn't have a rolled lip for the hose and clamp.
Hopefully it doesn't go all Russian on me and Popoff



Attachment 175167

Also Gone.

Was looking for a good spot to stash a spare key. Didn't like any under body options. Found an spot in the engine bay

Removed the security guard, I can now open the bonnet and access the spare key if it all goes pear shaped. Don't tell anyone.

Attachment 175168

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Originally Posted by Slunnie;[URL="tel:3120517"

3120517[/URL]]I think the R&R Beadbreaker is the only one I've heard of that will work on them.

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Yes, that’s the one. Only $275.00. I got the price wrong.

All ready to start the D2 -know it is not finished of course -

The exhaust was also completed by a mate with five cuts / welds to the rear muffler. This still has to have the hooks put on and then I will wrap it with the Titanium Wrap, all the way to the muffler.

The EGR replacement tube required a cut and weld due to the placement of the EWP up high on the radiator which was a simple and beautiful rerouting and in for a penny, to weld in the air nipple.

firstly the ecu would not communicate, had the original one but no go joe and then tried the nnn and still no go, ahh the old lock it up and unlock and the dash hazard flashers lights which had been flashing (no external indicators going though) then the nanocom showed communications present.

First crack at turning over and found the transmission oil lines were not just not tight enough on the lines to and from the box, easy fix but messy of course, started purging by the manual way, on and wait, crank etc. Did this four times and put the battery on charge for a while, then tried the 5 presses * 2 to the floor and the smell of diesel wafted through, this is obviously more effective. The FPR was leaking which of course required further practice in removal only to find a compromised gasket... It has been on and off a couple of times now of course. Was worried that I had not put the circlip on properly lol

Saturday and getting a gasket at 4.00pm, not on your nelly, so another wait till next weekend.

Have one last thing in the engine to fix and that is the standard airbox to turbo pipe was not actually long enough as the turbo is further back and higher. Lucky we have an aluminum pipe which came with the DD kit to use which we can cut down and put some lugs on for the clips to replace the MAF which is being removed anyway. The inlet to the air box has some problematic lugs but the tube has a profile to allow us to get a good seal against it (with the clips of course)

Have a gasket made up for the new MAP supplied by DD due to it being only 12mm round not the 18mm of the manifold hole, if my tune is not ready will start it up with the original MAP and have to use the Boost Box I got for the D2a just to ensure that the engine fires up, no doubt it will boost well past the lock down limit - do have a boost controller but to be sure to be sure.

Also sourced a P38 auto trans sump and filler neck, from Wales! The cost was less than $250 and he had the sump and dipstick advertised separately but got them posted together, they have left the UK and will here in time for the Auto TC changeover. He had originally put the sump and dipstick separately but put them together for me. Seeing the picture of the dipstick, anyone with a semblance of welding skills would be best to just buy a dipstick tube...

Range rover p38 gearbox dip stick | eBay

Bit of reflection on what has now been months of mods, was it worth it? Absolutely, not just for the anticipated gains in performance (off road capabilities and go) but more so I am a lot more competent in getting around and understanding the workings of the D2 and were something to happen, a lot more knowable as to being able to source it and most probably fix it. Again this resource, Aulro is a credit to all that contribute whether that be as questioners or as answerers as they both required to make the package!


Will have the final pics next week of the completed engine bay

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Originally Posted by RRT

All ready to start the D2 -know it is not finished of course -

The exhaust was also completed by a mate with five cuts / welds to the rear muffler. This still has to have the hooks put on and then I will wrap it with the Titanium Wrap, all the way to the muffler.

The EGR replacement tube required a cut and weld due to the placement of the EWP up high on the radiator which was a simple and beautiful rerouting and in for a penny, to weld in the air nipple.

firstly the ecu would not communicate, had the original one but no go joe and then tried the nnn and still no go, ahh the old lock it up and unlock and the dash hazard flashers lights which had been flashing (no external indicators going though) then the nanocom showed communications present.

First crack at turning over and found the transmission oil lines were not just not tight enough on the lines to and from the box, easy fix but messy of course, started purging by the manual way, on and wait, crank etc. Did this four times and put the battery on charge for a while, then tried the 5 presses * 2 to the floor and the smell of diesel wafted through, this is obviously more effective. The FPR was leaking which of course required further practice in removal only to find a compromised gasket... It has been on and off a couple of times now of course. Was worried that I had not put the circlip on properly lol

Saturday and getting a gasket at 4.00pm, not on your nelly, so another wait till next weekend.

Have one last thing in the engine to fix and that is the standard airbox to turbo pipe was not actually long enough as the turbo is further back and higher. Lucky we have an aluminum pipe which came with the DD kit to use which we can cut down and put some lugs on for the clips to replace the MAF which is being removed anyway. The inlet to the air box has some problematic lugs but the tube has a profile to allow us to get a good seal against it (with the clips of course)

Have a gasket made up for the new MAP supplied by DD due to it being only 12mm round not the 18mm of the manifold hole, if my tune is not ready will start it up with the original MAP and have to use the Boost Box I got for the D2a just to ensure that the engine fires up, no doubt it will boost well past the lock down limit - do have a boost controller but to be sure to be sure.

Also sourced a P38 auto trans sump and filler neck, from Wales! The cost was less than $250 and he had the sump and dipstick advertised separately but got them posted together, they have left the UK and will here in time for the Auto TC changeover. He had originally put the sump and dipstick separately but put them together for me. Seeing the picture of the dipstick, anyone with a semblance of welding skills would be best to just buy a dipstick tube...

Range rover p38 gearbox dip stick | eBay

Bit of reflection on what has now been months of mods, was it worth it? Absolutely, not just for the anticipated gains in performance (off road capabilities and go) but more so I am a lot more competent in getting around and understanding the workings of the D2 and were something to happen, a lot more knowable as to being able to source it and most probably fix it. Again this resource, Aulro is a credit to all that contribute whether that be as questioners or as answerers as they both required to make the package!


Will have the final pics next week of the completed engine bay

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Looking forward to some pics…BTW and for information for all ….re the P38 auto trans sump did you look locally before purchasing cos they are not hard to find nor are they expensive…. In my case $20 for the sump, fill tube and dip stick at a nearby “you pull it” wrecking yard about 3 weeks ago - but I did have to lay down in the mud for an hour to get it out . Being a V8 the crossmember and exhaust had to come off to remove the pan [emoji21]