Don't blame you I pulled over and had a mate run me out some hose clamps and tools. It's not a fun engine NA.Quote:
Originally Posted by RRT
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Don't blame you I pulled over and had a mate run me out some hose clamps and tools. It's not a fun engine NA.Quote:
Originally Posted by RRT
Yep, a few years ago, I was reading up on TD5s and coolants and stuff.Quote:
Originally Posted by RRT
D2 was brothers back then, and we were slowly going through issues after previous owner issues that had been perpetrated.
One of those was the glycol coolant they almost certainly used, or may have mixed around. 1lt bottle was left in the rear cubby boxes.
So after reading that flushing out glycol coolant and filling with OAT coolant, you will almost certainly get a leak or 10.
And so it did.
We had waterpump, top hose at the outlet to the head. removed outlet, cleaned up with wire and paper .. and refitted.
spaghetti pipe ends, and fuel cooler that I can remember all started leaking.
At the time I wanred him that it will start to leak, but as always he didn't listen .. just hear me make noise and continued on with his routines.
He called screaming that the bloody thing leaks from everywhere! [biggrin]
So expect if you changed recently from an unknown coolant type to OAT, suspect that the unknown was whatever a previous owner or service person just filled every any other vehicle with.
In your current situation, going by the images, check the fuel cooler.
Unless you've recently done the fuel cooler seals, then if it's not the fuel cooler leaking, get the repair kit anyhow, and renew the seals as a preventative .. they will almost certainly start too one day.
Cheap kit, so won't cost the earth.
Mine leaked with OAT (Nulon red) when I replaced all hoses and flushed out the green stuff.
it leaked for about 1000Km and then miraculously stopped leaking and has not leaked since.
It takes about a tablespoon a year to top up.
Regards PhilipA
Certainly did all these when we changed the head, did them all lol. Didn't leave a puddle last night perversely and when I checked after the drive there was no noticeable area I could see where it was leaking but it certainly was this area as per the puddle picture. Difficult to see where the cooler lines enter the lower radiator chamber and will put it up on the stands tomorrow to check these out as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by AK83
The radiator outlet to the front cooler pipe was my first thought as when I relocated the EWP to under the power steering pump, this was modified with sections but again no appreciable leakage from there.
This was the very same stuff Philip, does it make you think why it stopped? Does this stuff crystalize eventually and block the outlet / leak, but as it was not as prevalent as before could it have self healed as well??Quote:
Originally Posted by PhilipA
Getting tight till going away in a couple days and have to make the decision to go or not as have not have had a hell of a lot of time to rectify any problems and a coolant leak up in the high country is not optimum on a still unproven cooling system, hmmmm. As I noted we pressure tested the system first before re filling up with the OAT and did not have a leak so it makes it even more difficult than ever to understand where the leak is from.
D2a without the Roof Top Tent
Have had the RRT on for the last couple of months as have got nowhere to store it and having now transferred it on to the D2 (with the coolant and boost issues front of mind) took the D2a out for the Christmas Journeys. More so it was interesting to compare the now Tune 1 on the D2. The lack of RRT made an enormous difference to the D2a, still not a rocket ship or such but it was noticeable the difference it made, especially past 60Kph and accelerating to 100kph cruise down the freeway. Good steady surge of power and at least keeps up with traffic relatively easily, with the RRT it was a struggle the last 20kph up to 100.
My desire to drive with my toes not my foot was stark in comparison between the two it must be said, the D2 is now with a twinkle of the toes and the D2a does take a bit of wellington to get it up and going.
Did put the half ARB rack on the back of the D2a but this even on the TDi 300 was not too draggy and not a problem it would seem.
Yes it sort of crystallizes.Quote:
This was the very same stuff Philip, does it make you think why it stopped? Does this stuff crystalize eventually and block the outlet / leak, but as it was not as prevalent as before could it have self healed as well??
At first I thought that the hoses were leaking through the reinforcing mesh , but pretty soon it settled and I have red oozes out of the hose ends but it stopped at that.
Regards PhilipA
Making the decision this morning, do I go or do I stay... Had the intercooler hose blow off again yesterday, was boosting at nearly 22 psi on the freeway @ 100kph, then the woooooshhhh, fitted it back on - keeping tools in the car now! - so changed the ring down a size and this seems to have cured the issue.
Still having the flutter and driving literally with an inch of throttle application, keeping the boost to around 26psi before the flutter, so trying to keep it under with this less than ideal throttle use. Cruise control at 60kph up a slight incline sees the boost swing round to flutter time. Time to bite the bullet and get another boost controller me thinks...
Have a good indication of course of the potential performance as even with the limited throttle travel, it still goes well (with the issues noted as frustrations) but am guessing that a drive to Corowa and then onto the high country on Wednesday is not a good idea.
The coolant issues were attributed to the main hose and the lower two hoses. The main hose leaked when pressure testing go to 14 psi, was on the engine block side at the centre join and not seeable, this was fixed and the pressure upped when the lower two hoses leaked at around 16psi. Almost removed the bonnet as getting these fixed with the bonnet strut, as also when fixing them on the second time round with the main hose, is most inconveniently placed... suppose could have surgically removed the right shoulder as another alternative. The lowest hose leaked again, then reclipped and the pressure testing to 18psi and should have solved the issue one thinks.
Then had a whole lot of fun refitting the centre console, had taken off the two screws from the underside of the dash that held the back brackets for the attachment of the cig and money boxes without realizing. Hours and I mean hours of trying to refit until this was found to be the issue, always the simple things. So anyway got this back in easily once the lower brackets were attached and then the fitting of the Alpine with routing of the DAB and Sat Nav and finally have sound and directional aircon blow. Don't know others experience of DAB but I have found it underwhelming on the road, sure it sounds great when going but the drop outs are frustrating.
Attachment 175894
Then wiring in the UHF which is going to be hard mounted in the glove box along with the twin aerial selector (2dB and 6dB) which does not require a prominent position as only think I will be changing this to 2dB into and 6dB out of the high country. Trying to find a short lead (300mm at most) for between the two, difficult. May have to make up it myself.
Still leaves me to change the SLABs this morning which I am hoping will get rid of my three Mexican friends which are showing up too frequently as a RR 16 times under issue. was of course planned yesterday but due to my time wastage on the centre console and coolant did not get round to it.
This was a brand new hub when doing the drivetrain so have not been too concerned when they pop up as knew I was changing the SLABs to the 2a issue. Should I be more worried lol.
I had the same problem with mine blowing the bottom intercooler hose off the black steel pipe. I don't know if you have tried this or not, but take the intercooler hose off and rub the inside edge of it with sand paper. It helps to give it some grip. Has worked for me. [emoji16] A trick I learnt from Mario on here. [emoji106]Quote:
Originally Posted by RRT
The very same one and of course the worst to get to. Going down a size on the clip was due to the fact the clip was 'tight' but obviously was not tight enough so if it blows off again will certainly take the tip! more so anytime I remove a hose from hereon will do it as a matter of course.Quote:
Originally Posted by SPROVER
Hey RRT…. re boost hoses blowing off, I changed to T-bolt clamps. What type of boost controller are you using?
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...8e7e1610a6.jpg
Attachment 175896Quote:
Originally Posted by onebob
Those are the ones, a little different but the same broad collar. Would appear that the size was the main issue after not tensioning them properly initially. The hose clamp from the metal tube to the green pipe (where I incorrectly plumbed the boost) was the problematic one. On the drive home it held solid and did not move from the placement, so having a bit more confidence the problem has been solved.
The boost controller is a the metal T design type such as this one, little different but it is this type
Attachment 175897
